by Andrew Morrison | Mark Taylor of Broadway’s award-winning Cru Restaurant has just opened his second eatery, Siena, at 1485 West 12th (long home to famed then forgotten Star Anise). They have a few minor design tweaks to come (as well as a new door), but last night saw the first service, and the game is on.  Tim Evans, who was Alana Peckham’s sous at Cru, is cheffing the Mediterranean-themed effort. Prior to Siena, he worked at a couple of Michelin starred places in England and Robson’s Cin Cin under chef Julio Gonzalez-Perini. His sous is Dave Thielmann, also ex-Cin Cin (replacing Evans at Cru is Mike Buono – Wally’s son). They’ll be making many of the pastas in house, and word is they’re mighty good at them for the full dinner menu, click here). A refresher:

Siena will be a casual departure from the semi-formal Cru, not just in look and feel but in price point. The inexpensive concept, which sounds very Nookish, will be predominately Italian, with some southern French and Spanish influences. We can expect 42 seats in the 1,500 sqft space, and dinner seven nights a week (as well as weekend brunch) […]

So what to think? Well, South Granville could always use more down-to-earth eateries built with the apartment dense surrounds in mind, and we’ve seen casual Italian win in just about every Vancouver neighbourhood that it’s been injected into over the last five years. So far, this area hasn’t been given the treatment, so why not? Though others might see the physical location as a gamble because it’s off the main Granville drag, it’s helpful to remember that so is Vij’s. If it is any good – which isn’t difficult to imagine – I reckon they’ll do gangbusters.

Beyond all that, it’s just great to hear that someone is doing something new here. Star Anise has sat shuttered and empty since the end of the summer (and one assumes it was rather empty before that, too). Once upon a time some 15 years ago, it was where chefs/legends Robert Clark, Adam Busby, Julian Bond and Don Letendre (among a host of others) all toiled. Its old bones are steeped in local culinary history, so it is entirely appropriate that the challenge of making something of it has fallen to someone who is experienced and capable.

In the GM role is the returning Tessula Whitford, who worked at Cru for years before taking over the reins at Bridges about a year ago. The wine component sounds particularly interesting. Taylor says he’ll only be serving bottles from Spain, Southern France and Italy. “I probably won’t be strictly Mediterranean coast of those countries, but close enough.” He’ll also be pouring regional beers (Peroni, Moretti, Estella), grappa, brandy, and possibly a few assorted drinks in the theme. “I have a full license, but we’ll serve no standard liquor or cocktails.”

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