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Restaurant Scene Report #873: New Reviews And Edible Intel

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Scout’s weekly distillation of everything happening in Vancouver’s restaurant scene…

Media

The Globe & Mail

Fiona Morrow on the (finally) baby steps towards sustainable sushi. Money quote from an American environmentalist: “The bottom line is you go sustainable or you all go out of business eventually anyway – when we run out of fish.” There is no arguing with that, but has there ever been an instance in human history when we’ve actually had sense enough as a species to collectively say “Let’s stop this destructive behaviour?” Extra credit: Seattle Times.

Alexandra Gill checks out the new L’Altro Buca, brother of La Buca and descendant of Parkside. She likes it.

Vancouver Sun

Memo to David Hawksworth: hurry the f@ck up, please.

Huzzah for Japadog. I’m thinking about putting pot seeds and pancake batter on hotdogs and opening up in front of the Art Gallery. I think I’ll call it Amsterdog.

Deja-vu: Mia Stainsby asks local chefs if they welcome the arrival of celebrity chefs like Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Market) and Daniel Boulud (db bistro).

North Shore News

Deana Lancaster checks out Au Petit Chavignol (see Scout’s first glance here).

The Georgia Straight

I loved this piece by Pieta Woolley on how the young have no clue how to make their own food. Great stuff. That bowl of pork and beans looks fabulous!

Jurgen Gothe on Dutch gin. Wait, the Dutch make gin?

Westender

In the WE, I do hockey joints and the Bourbon Trail.

Vancouver Courier

Tim Pawsey lobbies for BC wine to receive regionally-specific distinctions.

Restaurant PR

From Top Table

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TOP TABLE TOAST OF THE TOWN WITH 15 ACCOLADES

Blue Water Cafe, West, CinCin and Araxi honoured at annual Restaurant Awards

Vancouver, BC – Top Table restaurants were recognized an unprecedented 15 times at the 20th annual Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards held Tuesday at the Sheraton Wall Centre. A panel of 19 expert judges acknowledged Blue Water Cafe, West, CinCin and Araxi before an audience of British Columbia’s leading restaurateurs, chefs, and service professionals.

Top Table proprietor Jack Evrensel said, “Never has Vancouver seen such a diverse and vibrant dining landscape. I want to salute the excellence of all of the winners that represent our province so well, and particularly our team at Top Table for their remarkable achievements over the past year.”

Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar

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Best Seafood, Gold
Restaurant of the Year, Silver
Best Formal Japanese, Silver
Best Service, Bronze
Sommelier of the Year, Andrea Vescovi
Platinum Wine List Award, Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

Blue Water Cafe cemented its standing as one of the city’s finest restaurants with a host of awards, including a second consecutive Gold for Best Seafood and elevated standings of Silver for Restaurant of the Year and Bronze for Best Service. These awards cap a remarkable year for the front-of-house team led by Stephan Cachard, along with executive chef Frank Pabst, who recently won Gold at Vancouver’s Gold Medal Plates and Silver at the Canadian Culinary Championships.

Receiving Silver for Best Formal Japanese, judges remarked “Yoshi Tabo’s offerings at the Raw Bar ‘fit seamlessly into Blue Water Cafe’s menu in a way that makes you forget that the raw fish here is some of the best in the city.”

Wine director Andrea Vescovi was honoured with the Sommelier of the Year award, presented by the International Sommelier Guild of Canada. Since 2001, Andrea has worked to build the restaurant’s diverse cellar, one of only four recipients of the elite Platinum Wine List Award.

West

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Best Service, Gold
Restaurant of the Year, Bronze
Best Last Course, Bronze
Platinum Wine List Award, Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

The inaugural winner and only Gold medalist in this category, West repeated with its third consecutive Gold for Best Service. The editors of Vancouver wrote: “Value may bring diners in, but it’s service that brings them back. West holds Gold for its concentration on the little things”.

With Bronze for Restaurant of the Year, awards judge said: “Retaining all aspects of West’s superb service and ambiance, Warren Geraghty has not only carried the mantle, but has done so under close scrutiny and with great regional flair.”

Pastry chef Rhonda Viani whose “chocolate-filled Charlottes are irresistible” received Bronze for Best Last Course, while wine director Owen Knowlton also garnered top standing with a Platinum Wine List Award, among only three other restaurants.

CinCin

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Best Last Course, Silver
Best Formal Italian, Honourable Mention
Gold Wine List Award, Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

A legend in his native France, Vancouver has once again taken note of CinCin’s chef patissier, Thierry Busset, with Silver for Best Last Course. The judges said: “Thierry Busset at CinCin impresses with treats like roasted cherries served with kirsch, raspberry coulis, and ice cream.”

Prior to arriving at CinCin in 2004, Thierry was the opening chef patissier of West, where he was instrumental in establishing the restaurant’s acclaimed reputation. In London, Thierry worked alongside super-star chef Marco Pierre White for nine years, including his role as pastry chef of The Restaurant in the Hyde Park Hotel, which was awarded its third Michelin Star during his tenure.

Attributing the collaborative strength between executive chef François Gagnon and restaurant director Ricardo Ferreira, CinCin also received an Honourable Mention for Best Formal Italian.

Wine director Michael Mameli’s commitment was also recognized during the ceremony with a Gold Wine List Award.

Araxi

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Best Whistler, Silver
Gold Wine List Award, Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

Araxi’s Silver for Best Whistler restaurant repeats its podium standing since this category’s inception in 1999. Established in 1981, Araxi continues to raise the bar for dining in Whistler, creating compelling regional cuisine based on local, sustainable ingredients.

Chef James Walt’s farm-to-table menus have proven popular with Araxi’s international clientele. According to Vancouver magazine: “James Walt of Araxi makes simplicity appear simple with rigorously conceived fresh meats and fish; try seared red tuna with caponata or wild salmon with herb and Pemberton arugula crust.”

Araxi’s acclaimed wine collection, directed by Samantha Rahn, was among a distinguished group of nine restaurants that won the Gold Wine List Award.

From Cru Restaurant

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CRU is thrilled to have won Gold in the 2009 Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards. Among the many award categories, Best Small Plates is particularly important because it indicates overall culinary excellence. This is an especially impressive accomplishment because of the outstanding competition: it is widely accepted that Vancouver sets the standard for small plates menus.

“They’ve got the most inventive small plates in the city,” said one judge. “Sleek, sexy, and sophisticated. Try the duck confit robed in bacon if you need convincing.”

Upcoming Events

Mothers Day Brunch – Sunday, May 10th
Cru is pleased to announce that, for the first time ever, we will be open for Mother’s Day brunch. We’ll offer a special brunch menu at the irresistible price of $25 per person, and a half-price menu for kids under 10. From 11am – 2:30pm. $25 per person – Menu at www.cru.ca

Beer and Food Pairing Dinner – Monday, May 25
Guests will be introduced to the full range of all-natural beers from Whistler Brewing. A discovery of beer and food pairing, matched with an outstanding five-course meal. 6:30 pm start – $65 per person.

Pre-theatre – Three-course Dinner for $37
The sensational “Les Miserables” plays at The Stanley from May14 – July 19

From “C” Restaurant

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Vancouver, BCC Restaurant has been named among the top ten seafood restaurants in the world according to the Tampa Travel Examiner’s Kelly Shannon Kelly. Of our local gem, Kelly says “… the creativity of the chef, the quality of the ingredients, and the freshness of the fish all combine to make this contemporary restaurant overlooking False Creek the best place in Vancouver for innovative seafood.” C Restaurant is the only restaurant in Canada included on the list, others include: Israel’s Mul Yam, Thailand’s The Boathouse Inn, Hawaii’s Chef Mavro, Satyricon in Brazil, Quinzi & Gabrieli in Italy, Le Grand Véfour in France, Vox at the Hilton Nordica in Iceland, Japan’s Ryoti Kagetsu, and Australia’s e’cco bistro.

And kudos come from local as well as international opinions. At the recent Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards, Executive Chef Robert Clark was honoured with the Green Award for his tireless work, championing local, sustainable seafood. In addition, C Restaurant was recognized at the awards as one of the top five restaurants in the city. They also ranked top five in the categories of Best Seafood, Best Regional, and Best Service.

An exquisite waterfront setting and graceful, choreographed service compliment the top-quality seafood served at C, making for an unforgettable dining experience. C Restaurant is located at 1600 Howe Street, one block south of Beach Avenue on False Creek. For more information or to book your holiday party, please call 604-681-1164 or visit www.crestaurant.com.

From Mortons The Steakhouse

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(VANCOUVER, BC) April 22, 2009 — Morton’s The Steakhouse will be open from noon until nine on Mother’s Day, Sunday, May 10. Morton’s memorable Mother’s Day menu is $69 per person. Guests may choose from Morton’s salad, with Morton’s blue cheese dressing, chopped egg, anchovies or a classic Caesar Salad; select one of six entrees including single cut filet mignon, with bearnaise sauce, or wild salmon filet with beurre blanc sauce; paired with a fresh vegetable side dish, and choice of potatoes; and finally for dessert either creme brulee or double chocolate mousse.

Morton’s The Steakhouse is located at 750 West Cordova Street in Vancouver. For reservations please phone 604.915.5105, or for more information please visit www.mortons.com.

About Morton’s

Morton’s Restaurant Group, Inc. is the world’s largest operator of company-owned upscale steakhouses. Morton’s steakhouses have remained true to its founders’ original vision of combining generous portions of high quality food prepared to exacting standards with exceptional service in an enjoyable dining environment.

The Company owns and operates 81 Morton’s steakhouses located in 69 cities in 28 states, and in Puerto Rico and six international locations (Toronto, Vancouver, Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, and Mexico City), as well as three Italian restaurants.

From Raincity Grill

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Vancouver, BC… Since 1992, Raincity Grill has been celebrating all things Vancouver, supporting local producers in the area and building relationships within our community. Taking it one step further, Raincity Grill is doing more than simply bringing the ingredient from farm to table; they are bringing the producer as well. On Monday, April 27th, Raincity Grill will host the second in a series of producers dinners, a steal of a deal at $60 with wines. Aptly named Market Mondays, these dinners will be held the last Monday of every month and will highlight some of the farmers, growers and fishermen that Raincity Grill works so closely with.

This month’s dinner April 27th at 6:30pm, will feature Pemberton Meadows paired with wines from Poplar Grove (see menu below). During the four-course dinner highlighting their products, Chef de Cuisine Peter Robertson and Poplar Grove’s Ian Sutherland will present each course, providing an informative yet informal dining opportunity. For more information or to make your reservations, please contact Raincity Grill at 604-685-7337 or visit www.raincitygrill.com.

For 17 years, Raincity Grill has defined Pacific Northwest cuisine, showcasing the unique ingredients of our local waters and small-lot farms – year round. Home of Canada’s premiere restaurant 100-Mile Menu and an award-winning Pacific Northwest wine list, Raincity Grill is dedicated to the bounty of our backyard. Situated in the heart of Vancouver’s West End, Raincity Grill captures the essence of Vancouver in food, wine and atmosphere.

By supporting local producers in the area, we are building relationships within our community. This in turn benefits us through being provided with the freshest seafood available and produce at the peak of its taste and nutritional value, which we then pass on to you.

At Raincity Grill we are making it easier for you to support local producers by bringing the farmers, fishermen, and independent growers into the city for you to meet, putting together a menu focusing on their hard work.

FARMERS MARKET MENU featuring: Pemberton Meadows & Poplar Grove

BEEF TARTARE
‘pemberton meadows’ beef, agassiz
nettle puree, malt onion powder
‘hannabrook farms’ watercress
wine pairing: Poplar Grove Syrah 2005

12 HOUR BRAISED BEEF SHORTRIB
roasted north arm farms beetroot
butter poached BC spot prawn
purple carrots, beetroot paper
blueberry gel
wine pairing: Poplar Grove Merlot 2005

SLOW ROASTED 40 DAY DRY AGED BEEF RIB EYE
yorkshire pudding, traditional
accompaniments, bone marrow jus
wine pairing: Poplar Grove The Legacy 2005

MILK AND COOKIES
variations on a theme
wine pairing: Monster Man Made 2008

Restaurant News Redux (In Case You Missing Anything)

Opening Soon

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A first look at the new Coast at 1054 Alberni is here.

The new Sean Heather and Scott Hawthorn collaborative in Gastown’s Blood Alley now has a name. The wine and tapas bar will be called Judas Goat. Why? The answer is here.

VIEW ALL ANTICIPATED RESTAURANTS

Personnel Changes

Executive chef Lee Humphries has left FigMint to run all of Sean Heather’s Gastown kitchens (linkage)

Interviews

50 questions with international celebrity chef and restaurateur Jean-Georges Vongerichten (video).

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There are 3 comments

  1. Re: Sustainable Sushi

    In ‘The Sushi Experience’ Hiroko Shimbo tells us that the traditional sushi fish were small and plentiful things like mackerel and bream, not large fish like tuna and salmon. Shimbo writes that large scale consumption of tuna and salmon in Japan only came in the 50s after WWII when refrigeration and freezing became commonplace. There was simply no way to keep such a large fish fresh.

    I’m certainly less an expert than Frank Pabst but is he suggesting that the sushi tradition is only 50 years old? We don’t have to search out alternatives, they’ve been around for hundreds of years.

  2. Thanks for mentioning us as being on the list of the world’s top 10 best seafood restaurants ……. C Restaurant is the only restaurant in Canada included on the list, others include: Israel’s Mul Yam, Thailand’s The Boathouse Inn, …….
    I hope we’ll have a chance to welcoming some of your readers at our seafront restaurant in Phuket.
    Best regards,
    Lisa Sol
    Mom Tri’s Boathouse
    Kata Beach Phuket, Thailand