by Andrew Morrison | I’m on record as a drooling mess for the savoury, salty, meaty, and otherwise hearty (archival evidence galore). I just can’t help myself. But that doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate the dainty and the delicate. Case in point, on a recent restaurant crawl with one of my sons (he picks the restaurant, I pick the dish) we shared this colourful revelation from chef Kris Barnholden at Latab. It’s a square of housemade crispy flatbread (local flour milled by our friends at Grain) layered with sunflower yogurt, studded with earthy beets and rose hips, and conservatively drizzled with local honey — a harmonious mix of light tastes and textures that last all of two minutes (so more sonata than symphony). Where it is substantial, however, is in overall impact; paired with a glass of NV prosecco, it was superb — eight days since and I’m still thinking of it, nibbling like a fiend at the memory…
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