Dachi’s Miki Ellis and Stephen Whiteside are joining forces with Chef Darren Gee (Ugly Dumpling) and GM Robin Corbett (Hānai, Ugly Dumpling) to open doors to their new project, ‘Niwa’, at 1875 Powell Street this week.

The restaurant’s kitchen crew and front-of-house team took Saturday to get in some practice with friends and family. The special “dry run” service offered a glimpse not only of chef Darren Gee’s opening menu but also of the thoughtfulness behind Niwa’s design and atmosphere.

Although Niwa translates to “garden” in Japanese, the restaurant isn’t overly indulgent of its inspiration. Instead of having plants perched on every opportune surface, the intimate dining room features only subtle touches of greenery. Designed by Claire Saksun of Saksun Studio, Niwa features clean lines, austere finishes, and a muted colour palette. Natural textures like light wood and earth-toned textiles are balanced with refined yet simple details, such as elegant gauze-like curtains and a striking burnt terracotta ceiling. Despite the decor’s understated modesty, the room radiates warmth — an ambience that is harmoniously complemented by an ingredient-driven menu and a beverage program centred around sake, with natural wines and refined cocktails rounding out the offering.

As someone with a personal fondness for the space’s former occupant, The Pie Shoppe (owned and operated in this location by the French sisters from 2016 to October 2024), I experienced Niwa’s transformation as both striking and reassuring. Without making structural changes, the team has crafted an identity that feels confident and distinct. Rather than evoking nostalgia or sadness for what came before, Niwa respectfully establishes its own presence, inviting diners to appreciate its thoughtful celebration of food, balance, and connection.

I don’t think this would have been possible if it weren’t for the fact that everyone on the Niwa team is agreed that Chef Gee’s cooking the foundation of their vision. While many restaurants start with a broad concept or design ethos, this team allowed Gee’s unique style (rooted in rustic Japanese influences, and honestly highlighting the best of what’s in season) to be the guiding light – versus being just an ‘element’ of, or ‘aligned’ with, their concept. This clear sense of purpose shapes everything from the menu to the space and atmosphere, creating a unified and deeply intentional experience – without being precious.

At last weekend’s Friends & Family service, our table tried charcoal-grilled leeks with shoyu butter topped with shaved bonito; fresh hand-cut pasta made creamy with a generous helping of uni, butter, and kabocha; a satisfying celeriac karaage served with a side of yuzu and oyster mayonnaise; a crunchy radicchio salad studded with sunchokes and finished with garlic panko and shio koji; as well as the “We Shouldn’t Be Here” cocktail (tequila, apricot liqueur, umeshu, sancho pepper, clarified milk), some sake, and some red wine.

The menu is available à la carte or omakase style (highly recommended). Though I’d have no problem dining solo, the dishes are particularly well-suited for sharing with friends. But enough talk — you really just need to snag a table and experience it for yourself. Although, keep in mind that Niwa’s hours are not what you’d expect: the restaurant is open from Monday to Friday exclusively, with no Saturday/Sunday service. In the meantime, have a look at our first experience via the photo selection below…

Niwa

Neighbourhood: East Vancouver

1875 Powell St.

(Opening soon)