Chef Jimmy Stewart and his kitchen team at Gastown’s good-looking Blacktail Florist share a knack for playful, tweezery presentations, but the high premium they put on light-hearted aesthetic exactitude never comes at the expense of taste. There are many dishes of evidence (ahem, pop rock-sprinkled salmon belly in dilly endive), but the one that tripped us out the most deliciously was a dessert: cedar campfire-flavoured cream and condensed sweet potato puffs that spread out over a landscape of decadent malted milk crumbs littered from on high with smoked salt, cranberries and (what looked to be) cornflowers. It was a combination of combinations that we never knew combined, and in doing so superbly it closed a meal that killed from the first bite.
Blacktail Florist | 200-332 Water Street | Vancouver, BC | 604-699-0249 | blacktailflorist.ca
I also ate this, and concur that it was awesome!