Room for Dessert, Vol. 5: Saan Saan’s Ginger Milk Burnt Sugar Cookie

Ksenia Dempster is a baker and proud “dessert person”. A believer that desserts should make people happy, she is spotlighting the final courses that are worth unbuttoning your pants for, and the talented local chefs behind them. To be clear: this column is not intended to review anything or anyone. Ksenia is in no way, shape or form a “critic”. She’s just an accomplished dessert enthusiast wanting to share intel on good desserts! Know someone making a nice dessert that you think she should know about? Hit her up on Instagram at @kseniaisadessertperson.

When I first walked into Saan Saan a few weeks’ ago, I don’t know what I was expecting; but upon entering the bright, open space located on the northern end of Main Street, I was immediately charmed. I had heard about the café when they first opened their doors last fall – people were going nuts for their Pineapple Coconut Cookie – but time flies, and I had yet to make the visit. Now I know what I’ve been missing.

Owned and operated by siblings Jamie, Eric, and Sarena Siu, the Saan Saan space has been in the family for three generations. While they have transformed the room into something bright and modern, there’s an undeniable ease and homey-ness to the café, bolstered by the warm welcome and enthusiasm from the Sius and their team.

The menu, inspired by Hong Kong-style café comfort food, is entirely gluten-free, but you wouldn’t know it to taste it. There’s a quiet confidence to Saan Saan’s concept – no asterisk or bold font disclaimer needed. In addition to their baked goods (a variety of cookies and mochi brownies) is a selection of savoury hand pies, or “puffs”, and a list of snacks and lunch-y items like Prawn Toast and Ginger Scallion Fried Chicken Wings. (I regretted having had lunch before we came.)

My mission had been to try, and then write about, the aforementioned Pineapple Coconut Cookie, but ultimately I left the decision-making to Jamie, the Siu siblings Chef. He encouraged me to try their Ginger Milk Burnt Sugar cookie (more on that to follow), his personal favourite. It was delicious and put a smile on my face (as did the char siu BBQ pork puff, pictured above). I have told a lot of people about it since, and now I’m telling you! If you have yet to go by Saan Saan, please don’t make the same mistake I did and let months go by before you do; because boy oh boy, am I glad I finally did.

The Dessert

Ginger Milk Burnt Sugar Cookie

This cookie is a ginger bomb! Freshly grated ginger, powdered ginger, and crystallized ginger are all mixed into the dough, along with milk crumbs and burnt sugar shards, giving it a great texture as well bold flavour. Chewy, milky, spicy, and gingery, it’s the perfect cookie for cold weather – or any weather!

The inspiration? Gerng jup jong lai 姜汁撞奶 (literally translated it means “ginger juice crashing into milk”) is a quintessential Hong Kong treat: a delicious, slightly sweetened milk custard magically set with the addition of fresh ginger juice, which transforms the fluid milk into a rich, almost panna-cotta-like texture.

Find it at:
Saan Saan Restaurant & Café
$5 | A core menu item!

The Chef

Born-and-raised in Vancouver, Jamie Siu’s fascination with food began at a young age, while eating, cooking, and experimenting in the kitchen. From making home-made bagels to brewing beer, Jamie has always had an appreciation for delicious food and its power in bringing people together.

Inspired by his desire to better understand the science behind creating delicious food, Jamie pursued a Master’s Degree in Food Science, studying abroad in the Netherlands. While he has never had formal culinary training, he cut his teeth working in some local restaurants, and dedicated himself to learning from “the greats” (such as Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal; and Renee Redzepi of Noma) teaching himself everything he knows about baking and cooking.

He opened Saan Saan Restaurant & Café – named after his late mother and paying homage to his Cantonese roots – with his siblings in the fall of 2024.

How do you take your coffee?
Black.

What did you think you’d be when you “grew up”?
In high school, it was between marine biologist or pharmacist, but I also always knew I wanted to do something with food. I ended up becoming a food scientist!

What was your childhood birthday cake? What is it now?
A DQ cake during childhood. Now it’s the Whole Foods vegan chocolate cake – simple, standard, and always hits the spot.

Favourite chocolate bar or candy?
Ritter Sport: dark chocolate with hazelnuts.

What is your favourite seasonal ingredient to work with right now?
Kabocha squash. It’s such an amazing ingredient with a sweet, nutty flavour, and a luscious texture. Definitely something I always get excited about working with!

Where should I go next?
The Gâteau Basque from Tommy’s Whole Grain. It’s a cookie-cake-tart hybrid, and it’s oh so delicious! They make some amazing high quality baked goods, and I dream of the next time I’m going to pick one up.