Ksenia Dempster is a baker and proud “dessert person”. A believer that desserts should make people happy, she is spotlighting the final courses that are worth unbuttoning your pants for, and the talented local chefs behind them. To be clear: this column is not intended to review anything or anyone. Ksenia is in no way, shape or form a “critic”. She’s just an accomplished dessert enthusiast wanting to share intel on good desserts! Know someone making a nice dessert that you think she should know about? Hit her up on Instagram at @kseniaisadessertperson.

The internet is a noisy place, and often I find the noise to be, well, misguided. But sometimes, the internet gets it right, and today, I’m joining the chat on two things likely already on your radar: Chez Céline and ice cream.

In case you haven’t already heard of it: Chez Céline is the much-loved restaurant by St. Lawrence owner JC Poirier, along with alumni Margaux Herder and David Lawson. In the few months since opening in May 2025, the Fraserhood spot has been featured in many lists, threads, group chats, etc. on the best places to eat in Vancouver — and just when the reservation frenzy was beginning to settle, they launched a new weekend brunch menu, leaving us abuzz all over again.

So, why am I compelled to add to this particular conversation? Because what Margaux, David, and the rest of their team have going on is that good. I am adding to the noise because you should go and try their desserts – namely the soft serve, available in multiple iterations to choose from.

I always have time for ice cream, but during the middle of summer it’s on our collective minds. (In case you missed it, we even published a handy guide to our favourite spots where you can get your fix – from scoops to sandos – which you can find here.) Soft serve is inherently fun, and that same spirit and lightheartedness is echoed in the room, service, and menu at Chez Céline. Don’t get me wrong, the food is seriously good – thoughtful and intentional — as are the wine list and cocktail menu. But it’s all set to a lively (sometimes loud) playlist, and I haven’t seen so many sparklers in one evening since… ever. The Kids Dreamy Mix Cereal (available only on ‘Le Brunch’ menu) is a mix of children’s cereal ‘greatest hits’, all in one bowl; and the Croque Monsieur Croquettes are damn cute, but even more delicious. They even have a section on the menu titled “Fun Times”.

All that to say: get yourself to Chez Céline. The food is excellent, the service is warm, and the fun is basically guaranteed.

The Dessert

Soft Serve, Many Ways

Soft Serve + Sprinkles ($9)
A little taste of childhood nostalgia, but if you’re feeling a bit more grown up, ask for the off-menu Salted Guinness Caramel—David’s favourite.

Soft Serve + Smashed Tarte au Sucre ($14)
Tarte au Sucre (sugar pie) is a traditional Quebecois dessert – everyone’s mom and grandma has their own recipes. Typically, it’s made with maple syrup, because it was cheaper than sugar back in the day. Look out for a Peach Melba version coming soon!

Profiteroles + Seasonal Fruit ($15)
Served with soft serve, a menu staple with an ever-changing sauce. Currently it’s strawberry, but expect delicious things like chocolate or salted caramel to come in the colder months.

Find it at:
Chez Céline

The Chef

Chef Margaux’s inspiration is straightforward: “Soft serve is awesome! Who doesn’t want to eat soft serve? It’s fun, and there are a million different ways to use it. In the summer, we’ve been playing with flavours like Peach Melba. In the winter, we plan to add it to Pudding chômeur, another Quebecois dessert staple.”

From childhood memories of planting vines and crushing grapes at her parents’ vineyard in Keremeos, to preparing dinners for her family beginning at the tender age of 11, Margaux’s connection to food is rooted in bringing people together and nurturing connection. A Christmas gift of a kitchen blow torch for the 12-year-old budding cook, together with a recipe for crême brûlée, sparked Margaux’s love for French food.

Margaux has been cooking professionally for 13 years, finding her footing at Cactus Club, where she worked her way up the ladder to Sous Chef, eventually managing three locations. Her career took a serendipitous step toward fine dining when an opportunity to stage at St. Lawrence turned into a full-time position.

Making the leap to open a restaurant is the realization of a dream Margaux has held since she was 16. With the menu at Chez Céline, she translates the vibrant warmth and generous sense of Quebecois hospitality into deeply nostalgic, approachable dishes like escargots on flatbread, steak frites, and chocolate cake.

How do you take your coffee?

At work, an Iced Americano. Outside of work, it’s an Espresso Tonic.

What did you think you’d be when you “grew up”?

For a long time I wanted to be a musician! But when I was 16 I knew I wanted to be a chef.

What was your childhood birthday cake? What is it now?

When I was a kid, my grandma used to make me Hummingbird Cake for my birthday. Now, my favourite is Carrot Cake with cream cheese frosting.

Favourite chocolate bar or candy?

Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups.

What is your favourite seasonal ingredient to work with right now?

TOMATOES.

Where should I go next?

I love the Budino at Folietta – I could eat a whole bag of the crispy bits on top! Also, June on Cambie has two flavours of soft serve that Chef Connor changes regularly.

Chez Céline

Neighbourhood: Fraserhood

4298 Fraser St.

778-760-8003

WEBSITE