Steak and corn was a traditional late summer combo in my house growing up, so it was an easy, no-brainer pounce when I saw it on the menu at tiny, 18 seat Hank’s in Victoria last Friday night. Granted, it was a little different than the barbecued slab and buttered cob of old. Instead, the 1/2 pound of island-raised, grass-fed beef tenderloin arrived rare, simply seasoned and thinly sliced over a deep puddle of delicious, corn-flecked cream amplified by sweet onion. Hidden under the surface were four or five housemade raviolis stuffed with long ripened Salva Cremasco DOP cheese from Lombardy. Ridiculous stuff. You need to try it.

$35 | 1001 Douglas Street | Victoria, BC | www.hanksarestaurant.com