The GOODS from Kissa Tanto

Vancouver, BC | Tucked away in the upper storey of a faded Chinatown storefront, Kissa Tanto has officially opened its doors. The 80-seat Japanese-Italian restaurant is the latest project of Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie owner Tannis Ling, head chef Joël Watanabe and sous chef Alain Chow. The three have partnered up to bring a small slice of vintage glamour to the city.

“We’re very proud of how the restaurant has turned out and feel we have achieved our goal of transporting people to a different time and place – giving them an excuse for nightly celebration, even if there’s no real reason to celebrate,” says Ling.

From the Japanese term, jazu kissa, which refers to the vanishing 1960s jazz cafés of Tokyo and the Italian word tanto, which translates to ‘a lot’, Kissa Tanto is a darkly poetic nod to a lost time when it was okay to drink whiskey and listen to jazz on vinyl all night long.

The menu, composed by Watanabe and Chow, is inspired by the delicate flavours of Japan in concert with the warmth of Italian cuisine. Feast on cold platters of seafood, assorted pickled vegetables and crudité. Delicate raw dishes, such as the carne cruda – made with Wagyu beef, pearl onion petals, arimo sancho and served with gnocco frito –typify Watanabe’s inventive flavour profiles. The pasta selection features dishes such as tortellini stuffed with potato farce in a Parmesan dashi with wakame, and boar lasagne with morels, miso besciamella and ramp pistou – each of which exemplify the Japanese-Italian union. Large plates meant for sharing include a whole flash fried fish of the day with daikon soy dipping sauce, pork sausage with shishito peppers and brown chicken jus, and a layered pork and squid tonkatsu with soy pickled asparagus and miso sesame sauce.

In the spirit of freedom and improvisation, Watanabe and Chow intend to allow the food to evolve naturally, balancing both familiar and unusual flavours and textures to surprising and harmonious effect.

Wendy McGuiness (Chambar, Royal Dinette) heads up Kissa Tanto’s cocktail program as bar manager, and will be instrumental in applying that hip 1960s mystique into each drink. Guests can imbibe on cool updates of retro classics such as the My Private Tokyo – a take on the Amaretto sour which incorporates plum wine, dry vermouth and a house made plum sea salt. The Four on Six Swizzle features bourbon, Noilly Pratt Amber, Ardbeg and a charred pineapple shrub – served over crushed ice.

Kissa Tanto’s wine list, curated by Layla Shea (Burdock & Co, Farmer’s Apprentice) features mostly European selections with a natural focus. Expect family-produced Italian wines rubbing shoulders with local gems, along with some eclectic by-the-glass sakes, sleeves of Asahi and a rotating selection of local craft beer.

The room, designed by Ste Marie (Bao Bei, Savio Volpe, Ask for Luigi), is dramatic yet intimate. Moody jewel tones play off gleaming wood, delicate textiles, subtle Japanese elements and mid-century lines to create an atmosphere reminiscent of the jazu kissa of the 1960s.

Kissa Tanto is located at 263 East Pender Street, serving supper and refreshments five nights a week – from Tuesday to Saturday, starting at 5:30 p.m. Reservations can be made on the website at kissatanto.com. For more information, follow on Twitter, Instagram & Facebook: (@kissatanto)