Vancouver is deep into Spring – arguably its most compelling season of the year. While the city tends to celebrate its arrival with pomp and gusto, Niwa (which opened last December, just after Winter Solstice) has taken a quieter route: grounded, deliberate, and steady. Its connection to the seasons is subtle but constant, and without theatrics.

I first visited the farm-to-table restaurant, located on an unassuming block of East Van, back in January. By then, it was already showing promise; but by the time I returned in early April, Niwa had had the time to grow and settle into its rhythm. The dining room had transitioned from the cool dark of winter to airy brightness. The natural woods, once the epitome of coziness under the dining room’s glowing fixtures, now dazzled under the late afternoon sun that poured through oversized windows (which open!). Confident, calm, and quietly dialled in, it was blooming in its own way.

The space buzzed with a vitality that felt natural and deeply grounding – a testament to room designer Saksun Studio’s keen eye for the interactions between people, spaces and light. The service was attentive and conversational, gushing with unconcealed passion for each dish and ingredient. Our server sang praises of the whole hog from Coghlan Cottage Farm that Chef Darren and his team had eagerly chipped in for. (Parts not used at the restaurant would wind up on staff’s at-home dinner tables.) However, even with our expectations heightened, when the bone-in pork belly finally graced our table, I was blown away. The trim was precise, which allowed a generous fat cap to take centre stage, and retained just enough textural integrity after rendering to support its sweet, nutty flavour. The carve was simple and self-assured, which benefited the leaner parts and highlighted their subtle blush and juicy, snappy bite. Finally, as a quiet flex of the pork’s quality, no sauce was served – the sole accompaniment was devil’s club koji and a dash of sansho, which provided a welcome alpine ‘zing’.

Niwa’s brilliance doesn’t stop there, though. The turnips, simmered until translucent, had become one with the smoky bonito dashi, and were topped with a garnish of ripe yuzu zest that lingered like the last winter days. The magnolia tofu salad – “courtesy of the streets of East Vancouver”, as our server noted – was creamy and nutty; while sliced collard green stems (an innovative use of what can be a lackluster vegetable) provided a sweet and tender crunch reminiscent of the asparagus and snap peas still to come. The Coligny Creek egg omelette showcased Chef Darren’s skill in borrowing the vocabulary of fall (like house-cured ikura) to enrich his language of the current season which features local eggs and foraged nettles. At the end of the meal, we were presented with a sakura infused ice cream draped in sheets of mochi and refreshed by jasmine tea jelly, which we gladly polished off just as the last remnants of light gave way to night.

If I lived within a 25-minute walk of Niwa, I would be here multiple times a week. This is food that instinctively feels good for the the body, soul, and community, all at once. It’s food that’s both evolving and deeply rooted; fleeting yet timeless. Unfortunately, by the time my words will have reached you, all of the aforementioned dishes will probably have run their course. But rest assured that, no matter when you get around to visiting the Powell Street restaurant (although hopefully it’s sooner, versus later) something equally enticing should be flourishing in their place.

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Niwa is open Monday–Friday, 5:30–11 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday. Details.

Niwa

Neighbourhood: Railtown Japantown

1875 Powell St.

778-379-3790

WEBSITE