Corn on the cob is one of those things that reminds me of being a kid. Even today I’m thrilled at the prospect of downing knife and fork and just going for it with my fingers and a full-on gnashing of my teeth. It’s a food that – to me at least – is fundamentally imbued with a special fever of fun.

The appeal of corn on the cob is wide enough for it to see the occasional bit of fancification by chefs who appreciate the ingredient for the same reasons. Witness the Corn Porn at The Mackenzie Room, where the last time I tried it it came pucked and licked with lime, butter and cayenne before it was given an earthy blanket of grated Alpindon cheese; or at Torafuku where I’ve had it hickory smoked, lathered with miso butter and given a zap-zing of green onion, tempura crumbs and spiced popcorn.

The latest iteration I’ve tried was at Lucky Taco in Kitsilano, where the cut cobs are charred, seasoned with tajin and served under a wash of pico de gallo that is mixed with queso fresco and fresh cilantro. There is a little mayonnaise coat to it too, which works on the palate in the midst of the pico’s gently citrusy sting; the viscosity of the mayo calms the jicama crunch and enriches the whole; it ends up being a lot more delicious for it. But the real star is the corn itself, the base flavour and facefulness of which is as magically transportive as a hotdog in a ballpark or a salty margarita on a sunny day. If you want one last taste of summer, get your teeth ready — this should be it!

$6 | 1685 Yew Street | 604-739-4677 | www.luckytaco.ca