by Andrew Morrison | Vancouverites will have to wait a while longer for chef Jefferson Alvarez to open his own restaurant. His much anticipated and whispered about project on the West Side has gone off the rails. If he has a timeline for when he expects to give it another shot, he’s not saying just yet. He is, however, letting loose with the fact that he’s soon to take over the kitchen at Gastown’s tiny, Ste. Marie-designed (and unfortunately named) Mosquito, where he will be designing “pinxtos” (Basque-style snacks) to pair with the existing Champagne and cocktail program, as well as developing a new weekend brunch menu.

If Jefferson is a complete stranger to you, don’t sweat it. Though he’s been cooking in Vancouver for six years now, it’s mostly been under the radar at restaurants where he hasn’t really had the opportunity to shine. To wit – in chronological order – his wings were conceptually clipped at the Italian-themed (and long shuttered) Divino on Commercial Drive; he was tucked too remotely at the mountain redoubt of Fraiche in West Vancouver (home to possibly the least adventurous diners in the civilized world); and he languished long and under-exposed at Gastown’s tone deaf Secret Location.

While Jefferson has certainly earned the respect of the culinary community and the devoted attentions of a few key food writers, he has – despite a killer resume beyond Vancouver – remained sort of like a first round draft pick who has yet to get the ice-time he deserves. (Before moving here, the Venezuelan-born talent toiled at Centro, Pangaea, Adega, Scaramouche, and Canoe in Toronto, and at Aquavit and Morimoto in New York and Philadelphia. He also staged at Michelin-starred Arzak and Akelare in Spain).

So while I wouldn’t say that I’m totally thrilled to hear that Jefferson is taking yet another lateral move to an establishment that comes with its own particular set of hand-cuffs, I’m nevertheless relieved that he’s still here, presumably with his eyes still leveled sharp on the eventual prize. Kick-off for his involvement at Mosquito is scheduled for February 20th.

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