The highly anticipated Supermarine restaurant is set to open to the public later this week in the old Abigail’s Party location at 1685 Yew Street.

Though technically open tonight, they’re still very much in “friends and family” mode and severely limiting the number of people they let in through the door. I expect they’ll be fully operational by this weekend.

Owned by James Iranzad and Josh Pape – the same duo behind the award-winning Wildebeest in Gastown (2012) and Bufala in Kerrisdale (2014), the new 35 seat Kitsilano eatery focuses squarely on seafood.

Exemplar dishes include bone-roasted skate wing with white polenta and field mushroom marmalade; tempura-battered snow crab with pomme puree, bok choy, and fresh crab salad; lobster bao buns with pickled cucumber and spiced black garlic bisque; and house spaghetti vongole with spicy bread crumbs. It’s a deep menu, and a salivating delight to read.

I may have misunderstood the concept a little from the outset, having expected a modern take on the sort of humble, simple dishes that one gets at a typical seafood shack; something just beyond the scope of chef Rob Clark’s excellent Fish Counter on Main Street, but not too far beyond.

Instead, the cooking was playfully imaginative and exacting, and the plating (for the most part) was beautifully done. Save for the octopus chips (a favourite bar snack at Gastown’s gone but not forgotten Boneta) and the quasi-traditional vongole, the dishes were each striking in their originality, even the prawn cocktail.

I won’t go into the food any further except to reiterate that it is considerably more refined than I originally thought it would be. And by no means does that make Supermarine any less casual than they intended it to be. What James and Josh have essentially created – with the help of long-time supporter Kevin Campbell – is a seafood-focused Wildebeest. And if that’s not a big checkmark in the plus column of Vancouver’s restaurant scene, I don’t know what is.

Reservations are going to be accepted for a portion of the room, always leaving a few tables for walk-ins. Bookings go live this weekend.

Bonus #1: top branding marks to Erin Sinclair. Bonus #2: 2am liquor license. Take a look inside…

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