by Treve Ring | “To our knowledge, no other vineyard in BC is a beachfront property, and we are proud to be growing and using our own coastal grapes,” says Sea Star winemaker Ian Baker, who has every right to be proud of their picturesque location on Pender Island. Rows of cool climate specific varieties stretch up the slope from clay and loamy seashore up to sandy soiled sites, offering numerous microhabitats for the wide selection of grapes both familiar and frontier. The winery’s vines are supplemented with nearby Clam Bay Farm, keeping sourced grapes to their unique Island. Sustainable vineyard practice is standard practice for Sea Star’s 27 acre site, with eager babydoll sheep nibbling at tasty (to ruminants) grasses and weeds. Adorbs of the stunted sheep aside, the winery is named for the colourful abundant sea star population in the area, reflected across the striking oceanic labels.

Though Ortega is in the frontier grape camp, the white grape is one of the finer calling cards of the Wine Islands – a coastal, bright, aromatic white grape native to Germany, and a cross between müller-thurgau and siegerrebe. Sea Star’s crisp, lively version is an excellent introduction to the grape. Crisp lime, white peach and spring blossoms fill the nose and carry through to the palate, where it is joined by fragrant melon and pink grapefruit pith. Sprightly but concentrated, off dry but crisp, this would be lovely with papaya salad and Thai lime dressed dishes.

I recently asked Baker about the Message in a Bottle of his 2014 Ortega…

Sea Star Estate Farm & Vineyards 2014 Ortega | Pender Island, BC | $17.30 + tax

Straight up – why did you make this wine? Ortega is a wine that gives a true expression of our cool climate coastal terrior. Ortega is a wine unique to our coast, very different from Okanagan wines and a good fit for our Sea Star brand.

Where are the grapes from? The grapes are grown at Clam Bay Farm here on Pender Island.

Your ideal pairing with this wine would be…? Ortega is ideally paired with Pacific Northwest seafood or spicy dishes, so for me personally my favourite pairing is Spicy Chili Crab.

Favourite BC wine, other than yours? No favourites, I just enjoy tasting all the BC wines.

What do you drink when you’re not drinking BC wine? Occasionally a peaty Scotch in the Winter and a refreshing Gin & Tonic in the Summer. I am a strong believer and supporter of BC wine and I very rarely purchase Imported wines.

MORE MESSAGES IN OTHER BOTTLES