For over three decades, Tojo’s Restaurant has been a Vancouver staple, known for its omakase and boundary-pushing. Tojo’s story is one of grit, vision and reinvention, proving that real food innovation comes from possessing a deep understanding of tradition and knowing when to break the rules.
Chef Hidekazu Tojo didn’t just bring sushi to Vancouver — he changed the way people in the West think about Japanese food. When Tojo landed here in the ‘70s, he took what he knew and flipped it (literally) inside-out, creating the California Roll and introducing a style that made sushi accessible to a crowd who had never seen anything like it.
This year’s Vancouver International Film Festival (September 26th to October 6th) features the world premiere of a film telling Tojo’s story. Directed by Mads K. Baekkevold, The Chef & the Daruma is screening as part of the Festival’s ‘Insights’ program. From VIFF:
For 36 years, Tojo’s has been a mainstay in the Vancouver food scene, beloved by critics, foodies, and a plethora of celebrities. A pioneer of Japanese cuisine in the West, chef Hidekazu Tojo helped bring sushi to the mainstream, and is known as the inventor of the California Roll. Shot in Vancouver, Vancouver Island, and Japan, The Chef & the Daruma is a mouth-watering film, taking us on a journey of immigration, identity, and reinvention.
Check out the trailer for The Chef & the Daruma below, and then secure your tickets to one of two scheduled screenings (Monday, September 30th, 6pm at SFU Woodwards; and Saturday, October 5th, 1:15pm at Fifth Avenue Cinemas) here.
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My sweetie and I started going to Tojo’s “Jinya” restaurant in the very early ’80’s. It was tiny, with only 4 or 5 stools at the sushi bar, a few tables and a few tatami rooms. We always took our daughter when she came along in 1983. Chef Tojo was a most gracious host and he treated us like his best friends every time we went (which was sometimes 3 times a week). His marinated tuna was one of the favourite things I’ve ever eaten. It didn’t take long and Chef Tojo became famous, preparing food for the likes of David Bowie and other big stars who had caught wind of his skills. He is a precious memory for our family. We feel privileged to have had that experience. Thankyou so much, Chef Tojo.