Mount Pleasant’s popular Peruvian restaurant, Suyo, is about to get a sibling, as Chef Ricardo Valverde prepares to open Uchu Cevicheria & Raw Bar at 158 East Pender Street in Chinatown. Along with his talented crew (including Manager James Reynolds, Operations Lead Felix Ng, newly appointed Chef de Cuisine Owen Chen, and Wine Director Michel Durocher), they’re targeting a late summer to early fall opening, if luck and permits align.

After picking up the keys to the former Sai Woo location (most recently home to Kosoo) in early March, the team quickly jumped into design mode. Once again, they’re partnering with local design studio Evoke (the same team behind the sleek, inviting interiors at Suyo), with designer Meagan Campeau at the helm.

From what I gleaned during a recent walkthrough of the space, the layout of the restaurant will feature booths, tables, and bar seating, guiding diners towards an open kitchen at the back of the room. The team has decided not to aim for the maximum number of seats allowable (110) in favour of a more modest number (68) in order to prioritize ambience. The high ceilings will be highlighted by custom hanging installations created by Peruvian artist David Goicochea. Goicochea’s large-format sculptures, crafted from junco reeds — an ancient technique traditionally used to build fishing canoes, dating back to the pre-Inca era — will be positioned centrally, elegantly bridging the expansive vertical space with a graceful, sea-inspired fluidity. “These installations aren’t just decorative,” says Chef Valverde, “They’re part of a deeper connection we’re building to Peruvian culture.”

Chef Valverde and Chef Chen are crafting a menu celebrating coastal Peru’s bold and fresh flavours, enriched by Nikkei, Chifa, and Spanish influences. Expect vibrant ceviches and thinly sliced tiraditos (a Nikkei-Peruvian dish that features raw fish sliced thin like sashimi and finished with a spicy, citrus-forward sauce). Leche de tigre (the bold, zesty marinade used in ceviche) is reserved and served as a bracing shot on its own; while Causa – made from chilled, seasoned mashed potatoes, and layered with seafood – brings contrast in texture and temperature. Combined, these elements reflect Uchu’s broader ethos: a layered, expressive take on coastal Peruvian food, shaped by centuries of migration and cultural exchange. Chef Valverde explains: “There are great seafood restaurants in Vancouver, but having these vibrant Peruvian dishes together on one seafood tower will be new – for Vancouver, and Canada – and we think that will be genuinely exciting.”

To drink, expect classic Cevichería cocktails alongside original creations that tap into Uchu’s Peruvian-Chinese roots. Think citrus, heat, and bold, spirit-forward combinations that hold their own next to raw seafood and spice. On the wine side, Durocher says the focus is on pours that cut through richness and echo the brightness of the ocean. That could mean a crisp imported Riesling or a refreshing local Sauvignon blanc, but the aim is to pour what feels right against salt, acid, and heat.

Partner and Operations Lead Felix Ng spent over a year scouting locations before bringing the Chinatown address to the table. One by one, the team eventually came around to both the space and the vision for what it could become. When I asked what drew them to it for their cevicheria concept, Chef Valverde explained: “Chinatown is on the rise. Great bars and restaurants are setting the stage for something meaningful. We want Uchu to contribute positively to that momentum.” But beyond that, and on a personal note, “Not many people know this, but my great-grandmother was born in Peru to Chinese immigrants who arrived by boat in the early 1900s — they were jewellers. I grew up surrounded by that heritage through food, family gatherings, and cultural events. I even went to one of the only two Chinese-Peruvian high schools in Lima, founded by Chinese migrants in the late ’60s. This Chinese heritage has always been an important part of my heritage. So being in Chinatown feels right. I don’t feel like an outsider — I feel like I belong.”

Cleaning, sorting and sourcing have begun. Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly, and doors open on schedule! Stay tuned for more details closer to opening, and follow Uchu here. (P.S. These guys are currently in the process of staffing up, both FOH and BOH. Interested? Resumes can be sent to [email protected])

Uchu Cevichería & Raw Bar

Neighbourhood: Chinatown

158 East Pender St.

(Opening soon)