by Andrew Morrison | Poutine can be pretty gross in and of itself, but what of the poutine that has gone ahead and coupled itself with some meat? A disgusting self-indulgence, right? An over-self-indulgence. Well, not always. It’s actually not all that far removed from a Sunday dinner, minus the sprouts, yams and Yorkshires. While it is absolutely excessive, it doesn’t have to be as disgusting as it sounds. This one – found recently at The Oakwood in Kits – was pretty damn decadent without being repulsive. The pile of brisket had been smoked in-house and was added last as a crowning garnish (still warm, and untouched by gravy). The meat had great texture and flavour; prepped to a standard a carnivore fetishist would aspire to with exacting care in the kitchen. In the photo you can see a fatty edge or two, and there in lies the magic, the draught that convinces the eater that all is right in the world, that no pounds will be gained, that the next Star Wars movies won’t suffer a Jar Jar Binks or dialogue made of pine. The fat accelerates the meat’s overall melt on the tongue, and it’s a beautiful thing to feel as much as taste; so much better than the usual soggy short rib’s molar invading chew. Added bonus: the dish is presented in a skillet on top of a tree stump. How cool is that?

“All Canadian Poutine” | The Oakwood | 2741 West 4th Ave. | www.theoakwood.ca | $10 

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