Ksenia Dempster is a baker and proud “dessert person”. A firm believer that desserts should make people happy, she is on a mission to spotlight the final courses that are worth unbuttoning your pants for, and the talented local chefs behind them. To be clear: this column is not intended to review anything or anyone. Ksenia is in no way, shape or form a “critic”. She’s just an accomplished dessert enthusiast wanting to share intel on good desserts! Know someone making a nice dessert that you think she should know about? Hit her up on Instagram at @kseniademp.

Reliable and sophisticated, Osteria Savio Volpe, the firstborn of the Banda Volpi group, gives major oldest child energy. Tried and true, it’s a people pleaser, in the best way. It has established the family name and carved the path for its younger siblings (La Tana, Pepino’s, Elio Volpe). It’s never not good; in fact, it’s never not great.

None of this is a “hot take” – I know that. But one can be quick to gloss over Savio in favour of its siblings and their bright, shiny newness or “rebellious” natures. So, consider this your reminder to mix in a Savio visit in the very near future!

The Dessert

Blueberry Black Currant Tart
Seasonal (and currant-ly out of season, but it will be back next year!)

Find it at:
Osteria Savio Volpe

A disclaimer, everyone: this Blueberry Black Currant Tart isn’t available right now (oh summer, we miss you already). The ever ambitious and overachieving eldest child that it is, Savio is constantly changing its menu to reflect seasonality. However, with that being said, you can be sure the pastries that are on offer will live up to, if not exceed, your expectations (pumpkin cheesecake, I’m looking at you).

The Chef

Executive Pastry Chef Jessi Morton’s love affair with baking began outside the traditional culinary school path. Rather, it blossomed in the comfort of her own kitchen, where she spent countless hours experimenting with flavours, textures, and techniques. Through trial-and-error, and a healthy amount of perfectionism, she eventually taught herself the art of pastry. Chef Morton finds inspiration in the beauty of nature, colours, and textures, resulting in rustic-style desserts with deep respect for simple ingredients and tradition, that evoke a sense of nostalgia and connection.

Fruit tarts are a personal favourite for Chef Morton, especially in the summer months when local produce is abundant. The Blueberry Black Currant Tart uses BC blueberries, Chantilly cream with wild chamomile from a local forager, and local honey. Like all good desserts (in my opinion), this one is rooted in nostalgia, conjuring memories of picking up fresh pies from the farm.

How do you take your coffee?
I’ve recently (almost) quit drinking coffee! Matcha is now my go to.

What did you think you’d be when you “grew up”?
Although I knew it wouldn’t be my entire professional career, I aspired to be a fashion model when I “grew up”.

What was your childhood birthday cake? What is it now?
Ice Cream Cake! Only for the cookie and fudge layer. Now it’s Baklava Cheesecake.

Favourite chocolate bar or candy?
Sour Keys, but when the bag has been left open and they get really chewy.

What is your favourite seasonal ingredient to work with right now?
Pumpkin. I could dream up endless pumpkin desserts.

Where should I go next?
Keeping it in la famiglia, the pumpkin cheesecake with espresso toffee at Savio. It’s also pretty high up on my list of favourites.

Osteria Savio Volpe

Neighbourhood: Fraserhood

615 Kingsway

604-428-0072

WEBSITE