Ksenia Dempster is a baker and proud “dessert person”. A firm believer that desserts should make people happy, she is on a mission to spotlight the final courses that are worth unbuttoning your pants for, and the talented local chefs behind them. To be clear: this column is not intended to review anything or anyone. Ksenia is in no way, shape or form a “critic”. She’s just an accomplished dessert enthusiast wanting to share intel on good desserts! Know someone making a nice dessert that you think she should know about? Hit her up on Instagram at @kseniademp.
THE DESSERT
‘Ekmek’
(Kataifi phyllo, masticha, pistachio)
Find it at:
Nammos Estiatorio
I love this dish; I find myself thinking about it far too often. Although I can see Nammos from my apartment balcony, I would happily cross the city to eat it, and I truly hope you will make the trip from wherever you are to eat some too. Ok, let’s Ekmek!
The first entry in this “dessert log” comes from Chef Petros Dimopoulos, of Nammos Estiatorio. Ekmek is a traditional Greek dessert consisting of three layers: kataifi pastry (a shredded phyllo dough that, to me, looks like ramen noodles or angel hair pasta) which is baked and then soaked in sugar syrup, creamy vanilla custard, and not-too-sweet chantilly (i.e. whipped cream). A full time menu staple (to my delight!) Chef Petros’ take on Ekmek is “nostalgic on every front. Every Greek child grew up on their yiayia’s Ekmek. It’s so simple, it’s so good.”
THE CHEF
Chef Petros Dimopoulos was born in Greece. He started his career working in hotels in Mykonos and Crete, as well as at Athens’ hotspots ARK and DaVinci Restaurant Bar. Petros came to Canada in 2019 to further his culinary career whilst still cooking food from his home. Learn more about Chef Petros via a brief Q&A below:
How do you take your coffee?
“Freddo Espresso Sketo” (whipped espresso on ice, black). It’s essentially Greek iced coffee, if I may.
What did you think you’d be when you “grew up”?
I always knew I’d be a chef. I was intrigued by tech, but at the end of the day my dad, who was a chef himself, inspired me and helped me understand that cooking was what I wanted to do.
What was your childhood birthday cake? What is it now?
Growing up it was mostly chocolate cake, with my favourite soccer team’s logo plastered all over it. Now, I’m going for a DQ Ice Cream Cake – my favourite.
Favourite chocolate bar or candy?
I have so many! A favourite from Greece is “Lila Pause” Strawberry Milk Chocolate. In Canada, it’s been Twix. I have a sick obsession.
What is your favourite seasonal ingredient to work with right now?
Eggplant. It’s on our menu year-round, but this time of the year I bring back our “Melitzana Imam”, a slow braised eggplant in rich aromatic tomato stew. Pro tip: put a piece of feta on top.
Where should I go next?
Batard Bakery. They welcomed us to the neighbourhood with open arms, and we consistently start our mornings with their Market Loaf or a pastry and café.
ABOUT NAMMOS
Nammos Estiatorio opened in 2016, bringing authentic Greek cuisine to the Fraserhood neighbourhood in a modern and comfortable environment. Dishes are served tapas style, intended to be shared with others, and paired with a carefully curated list of local and Greek wines. Fun and transportive!
Accolades upon accolades: Nammos, and Chef Petros Dimopoulos, are Michelin Recommended 2022 & 2023; recognized by the Greek Taste Beyond Borders organization; and took home Gold in the Authentic Greek Cuisine Awards 2024.