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How One Chilliwack Farm Helps to Shape the Menu at Botanist

Every year, Chef Hector Laguna takes his whole team out to the Local Harvest farm in Chilliwack so that they can see the labour behind the produce for themselves, and pay that respect and knowledge forward to local and visiting diners alike. Last summer, I tagged along...

How One Chilliwack Farm Helps to Shape the Menu at Botanist

Botanist Chef Hector Laguna at Local Harvest Farm | Photo Scout Magazine

Earlier this month, Botanist hosted a dinner built around ingredients from Local Harvest, reminding me of the day last summer that I spent on the farm with the restaurant crew — a field trip to see where it all begins…

Over the course of our visit, I took a few dozen photos commemorating the experience. But reflecting back on our time at Local Harvest, it isn’t the scenery that’s stuck with me; it’s what drove us beyond Vancouver city limits to begin with: the meaningful relationship between a kitchen and the farm that supplies it.


It was mid-June when the Botanist team and I boarded a bus heading east to Local Harvest in Chilliwack for their annual visit. As we left Downtown, the heat changed. The smell of concrete shifted into the scent of irrigated soil — a combination of compost, growth, and plants working hard under the sun. Out past the small farm market, the scale of Local Harvest came into focus: 37 acres cared for by Dan and Helen Chevalier, along with a tight crew committed to growing for flavour, not volume. Since 2013, they’ve been tending herbs, lettuces, fruit trees and rotating vegetables, all without chemical sprays. Greenhouses extend the season, and everything in the market reflects what’s ready to eat right now (as well as their own homemade bread and a curated selection of other local goods).

Chef Hector Laguna has been sourcing from Local Harvest for about seven years. For him, the produce deserves to be treated with the same care it was grown with. “Dan’s vegetables make my job easier,” he says. “I can taste the passion he puts into his farm in every vegetable he sends me.”

Each year, Hector brings the whole crew — front- and back-of-house — out to the fields to see the labour behind the ingredients: hands deep in dirt; time spent labouring under the heat; and long days that start well before sunrise. “It gives us respect for the ingredients,” he says. “It helps us tell the farm’s story to our guests.” It also shapes how they cook: with more intention in the process, less waste in the bin, and a deeper understanding of what the vegetables need in order to shine.

Province-wide food access issues make these relationships feel even more relevant. Keeping supply lines steady starts early — with restaurants that commit to growers through the seasons. When a restaurant backs a nearby farm, the impact reaches further than the dining room. Specifically, when a restaurant the size of Botanist commits to a grower like Local Harvest, it creates stability. Regular orders let Dan and Helen plan ahead and keep the work going year after year. Guests benefit too: diners from Vancouver and further afield experience BC-grown produce at its peak, and locals gain a clearer sense of the farming community that sustains them.

In-between the rows of beans and lettuces, I watched cooks and servers taste what they’d later serve, learning the landscape before the dish. Each delivery, every harvest keeps local food moving to local tables. Connections like this one show what’s possible when farmers and chefs work closely together — a living part of how BC food culture grows.

If you’re looking for easy (i.e. in-town) ways to taste this farm partnership in real time, lunch is available at Botanist weekdays from 11:30am to 1:30pm, with dinner offered Tuesday to Saturday (5:30-10pm), and a weekend brunch service from 11:30am to 2pm. On the menu you will find Local Harvest pears and beets chilled and caramelised in the Burrata Salad. Chicories and the last of the season’s corn anchor a Pacific Halibut dish with sidestriped shrimp; and the Dry-Aged Striploin comes with Local Harvest squash. The Steamed Sablefish is built around winter radishes and smoked carrots; and Garlic, onions, and shallots from the farm run through the menu year-round.


WHY WE CARE
When a restaurant commits to buying locally, it gives farms the stability to plan ahead, plant more crops, and employ more people. Partnerships like the one between Botanist and Local Harvest build that foundation. A healthy farming community leads to stronger regional production — more Canadian-grown fruits and vegetables entering the market instead of imports. That balance supports, not only restaurants, but everyone who relies on access to good, clean food.


Botanist
1038 Canada Place
Local Harvest
7697 Lickman Rd.

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