‘El Gato Gab Gab’ is Opening in Mount Pleasant This August

The Boxset Collective restaurant group has announced the latest venture to be moving into their 2650 Main Street space (formerly Novella Coffee Bar / Vignette) – and it’s probably not what you’re expecting… This time around, the team responsible for fellow Main Street concepts Published on Main and Bar Susu are taking a stab at a modern Mexican cocktail bar and botanero (drink-forward snack bar typical to Mexico’s southern area), called El Gato Gab Gab.

When news of Novella’s closure came, back in January of this year, I’d be lying to say it was a shock to myself and other ‘restaurant wonks’. For context: Novella initially rolled out as daytime café, then later attempted to add an evening wine bar (Vignette) – but the concept never quite resonated. This was partly because the original wine bar concept intended for the space, Bar Susu, faced permitting delays, eventually settling into a completely different location nearby (inside the old The Whip space). Furthermore, since people generally form their impressions early on, it can be especially challenging to persuade patrons to envision their familiar café as an upscale, multi-course dinner spot by night. When the sophisticated (high-quality but mismatched) tasting menu didn’t attract enough evening diners, the offerings were simplified to more casual snacks, and that didn’t take either. Ultimately, Vignette completely fizzled out, followed by Novella.

When I ask Allmin about this, he responds: “Beyond the technical setbacks and delays in opening of that project, we acknowledge making some bad decisions—almost driven by ego. At that time, we had been given a Michelin star at Published and were Michelin recommended at Susu. Originally, Susu was meant to return to the Novella/Vignette space, but when it stayed in its current location, we developed Vignette to fill the gap. As a team, we then became very focused on chasing a star for our new venture, without having a solid concept in place. Moving away from the initial plan led to a series of reactive decisions and constant troubleshooting. Even without these issues, Susu might have struggled in this location.”

So why Mexican; and why now? “After Novella closed, we had an opportunity to sell, but we decided to give it another crack. I’ve always seen potential here and I think although Novella didn’t succeed, I wasn’t prepared to walk away because I have complete faith in the space and in this neighbourhood. We love this block. And we love the company that we’re in with Tocador, and The Cascade Room as neighbours. We just needed the right concept.”

THE CONCEPT

The sprawling 3,200-square-feet space is being revamped by Boxset’s in-house design team, to include a total of 78 seats, with 14 spots at the bar. From what we’ve seen, it’s clear that they are aiming to shift their new project as far away from the old Novella/Vignette model as they can go. Jo Casson, who in addition to his role as El Gato Beverage Director is also drawing on his background as a designer to help facilitate the shift, explains: “I think for us there was some scar tissue. We knew we needed something completely new. A total transformation.”

Standing in the space late last week, it was clear that the transformation is going well. While Novella was a beautifully crafted, sleek and monochromatic space, it could hardly be described as “fun”. Now, “fun” fits. The team has ditched its tranquil shades and minimalist ambience for a “punchy, vibrant, and zestful” maximalist aesthetic with a tropical-ish vibe that leans into “colour on colour, pattern on pattern, and texture on texture”. Local artist, Dominique St. Jean, has been brought on board as curator for the room’s painted walls. Handmade tables made of light walnut are meant to insinuate the warmth of a Spanish hacienda, while contemporary upholstered and tiled elements will lend a sense of cohesiveness to the room. How guests choose to engage with their surroundings, and each other, will be left up to them: chill and have a low-key conversation in a dark corner, or pull up a seat at the bar and be at the centre of all of the action. “Nothing overly serious,” Casson summarizes. “This is not a highbrow situation. We want to be about the fun first.” Allmin underscores this point by chiming in: “We want people to remember the playful idiosyncrasies and, obviously, the quality of the food and drink, but more than anything, we want them to remember how they felt, and we want that to be the feeling of ‘I just had the best time’.”

Food

Executive Chef Christian Chaumont (previously Tultepec and Cuchillo, locally; and Máximo Bistro in Mexico City), who originally hails from Mexico, is charged with translating modern Mexican cuisine into a Pacific Northwest context. Think vibrant flavours presented in fun and creative dishes that go well with El Gato’s drinks. However, although Chaumont likes to cook nostalgic flavour profiles, he also appreciates that without proper Mexican ingredients, it isn’t Mexican food – simply ‘Mexican-inspired’. As for what that means for the menu: as of yet, nothing is set in stone, but a couple of dishes that are so far being teased include the likes of Dungeness Crab Flautas Ahogadas and Sweetbread Tostadas. Not a bad start!

Drinks

With El Gato, the Boxset Collective crew are tapping into their spirits-loving side to create an agave-forward (but not exclusively so) drinks program, featuring cocktails, an agave spirits list and ice cold cervezas. Agave (and other spirits) will also be offered up for tastings. Oh, and there will be non-alc options aplenty, for those wanting to imbibe on the pseudo-Mexican botenaro vibes, without the assistance of a boozy buzz.

Although the menu development is still underway, Casson is aiming for a fun and unfussy but in-your-face list of rotating tried-and-trues, with some more “extroverted” options thrown in the mix, injected with fresh flavours inspired first and foremost by Mexico’s wide and varied culinary traditions and scenes (as well as a few wild cards). Nothing too “out there”, though, since approachability and deliciousness are still the bottom line. For example: there will be cans of El Gato Lager (left); Pinoy to Pińa (mezcal and rum highball with banana soda and ube ice cream); ¿Que Pasa, Folks? (reposado tequila fizz with pasilla chile, carrot and marigold); and Gatorita (an ‘on the rocks’ take of a classic margarita). Casson shared that the idea is to resist the urge to develop a drink card that indulges a bartender ego, and to stay focused on delivering a selection that serves the purpose of having a good time. “We’ll be pushing the envelope with our techniques and ingredients behind the scenes, and that will result in unique drinks, but we’re avoiding anything overly complicated on the surface. We want to be accessible. Just come in and have a really nice drink.”

When El Gato Gab Gab opens doors this August (knock on wood) they will be open daily for evening service, extending their hours until late on the weekends. Stay tuned to their IG account here for more details and announcements as we hone in their official opening date (TBA).