by Treve Ring | In my line of work I get to drink taste a boatload of wines, many good, most average, a lot of plonk, and a slight few, awesome…

Gonzalez Byass Apostoles Palo Cortado Viejo, 30yr Old | $35 for 375ml | +127761

That’s right. Sherry. It can be awesome, especially when it carries this much memory and history. And if you’re new to the Sherry game, now’s the time to school yourself. It’s winter holidays; cold walks, long nights, short days and warm fires yearn for potent wines like this.

Colloquially, VORS means “Very Old Rare Sherry”, though Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum is the proper expression. However you want to say it, know that the emphasis is on the word rare. This special qualification is issued by the region’s governing body and reserved for specific wines of exceptional quality and an average age of over 30 years.

Apostoles is a minimum of 30 years old (verified by carbon dating) but in reality, parts are quintuple that. This Solera was begun in Jerez, Spain in 1862 with the visit of Queen Isabella to the bodega of Gonzalez Byass. To commemorate the special occasion, a gigantic Sherry barrel (aka “butt”) holding in excess of 157,000 litres was created, and christened El Cristo. El Christo was accompanied and surrounded by twelve 6,000 litre butts, representing the twelve apostles, from which this wine takes its name and origin.

Bonus: All of the “apostoles” are named and contained wine, save for Judas, which is used to store vinegar. #BAM! 

Not all sherries are sweet; this is much more savoury and sidles easily into umami territory. Rich and intense on the nose, with sweet roasted almonds, fresh figs and sea salt earthiness. The textured and complex palate is layered with marmalade, honey, savoury tobacco, orange oil, sea salt and heady walnut richness. There is a welcome bitter almond shell grip to the tannins – an isle to grasp onto in this swirling briny sea of concentrated flavours. A splash of pedro ximenez sweetens and fattens up the palomino grape’s racy linearity. Exceptional length and lasting impression. Gonzales Byass is one of the dwindling number of shippers with soleras of this age and quality, so when you see this outstanding wine on the shelf at this OUTSTANDING price (it began 152 years ago for El Cristo’s sake!), don’t miss it.

This wine has aged enough. Once open it will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks (not that I suspect it will last that long once you taste it). An ideal pre or post dinner sip alongside roasted chesnuts or salted mixed nuts, jamón Serrano, prosciutto-wrapped figs or strong cheeses. ¡Salud!

EVERY AWESOME THING WE DRANK