On a sunny day, light pours into El Compa, bouncing off its textured walls and pulling warmth from its colours — faded terracotta, in-your-face pink, and flashes of lime green. The air is thick with the scent of chiles hitting the heat, tortillas warming, and meat slow-cooking into something deep and rich. With the right dish in front of you, it’s easy to feel transported to a real Mexican taqueria.

That’s exactly what Carlos Sanchez, Pablo Diego, and Carlos Lechuga set out to do. The three friends come from different parts of Mexico but met in Austin, Texas, while working at the Fairmont. In the kitchen, they immediately connected — each of them possesses the same drive, intensity, and unshakable ability to “get it done”. But their bond runs deeper than service; it’s also tied to the experience of figuring out life in a new country.

“Pablo got to Texas first, in 2018,” says Sanchez. “When Carlos [Lechuga] and I arrived later, we struggled — new country, new culture (it was my first time in the U.S.). On top of that, we had to navigate a tough selection process for the hotel. Once we got the job, the pressure to perform was high, but Pablo made things easier. He shared everything he had learned — what worked, what didn’t — helping us find our footing. We all lived in the same apartment complex, ate lunch together, had drinks after work. We celebrated Christmas, New Year’s, and Mexican Independence Day as a unit. We travelled, explored, and over time, we became family.”

When the trio decided to move to Vancouver, they made the jump as a unit — only to land in town just before lockdown. With everything stalled, their plans got rerouted, and they ended up working separately before coming back together at Aleph. The Middle Eastern eatery operated in the space at 1889 Powell Street (now home to El Compa) as a vegan concept, before closing in mid-January 2025, after seven years of business. While Aleph’s menu is still available for delivery, El Compa is something entirely different: a kitchen that doesn’t hold back, where vegetarian and vegan dishes sit alongside boldly executed meat options. And the name? Compa—short for compañero, Spanish for “companion” or “friend”—reflects the bond that’s carried them through every challenge. “Now that we have our own place, we’re pouring everything—our history, our experience, our love, and our souls—into it!” says Sanchez.

And you can taste it. El Compa is unapologetically spice-forward, not toned down to fit some imagined ‘Vancouver’ palate. They’ve even tapped a local supplier who imports directly from Mexico, making sure key ingredients are the “real thing”. The menu isn’t overloaded, and features just a handful of things done well. Tacos, quesadillas, and burritos are packed with nothing but heavy-hitting flavour. No rice in the burritos, either – because that’s not how it’s done in Mexico.

At any given time, you’ll find no less than four salsas and hot sauces on the go at El Compa’s central salsa bar, each one deliberately reflecting the range and depth of the threesome’s cooking. They also deliver heat, of course – but always with nuance. On my recent visit, I tasted:

Macha – Not about blasting your face off. Instead, this one leans into texture and depth, with fried chiles and garlic leading the charge.
Tatemada – A bright and light blend of charred tomatoes and onions.
Habanero – Sharp, acidic, electric green mix of tomatillo and habanero. Perfect with Cochinita Pibil (or anything, really).
Jalapeño – A light, earthy, and smoky blend of fried jalapeño and serrano, that sees toasted peppers blended into a rich and creamy molcajete. Packs serious heat, but the depth makes it addictive.

Sides at El Campo are also dialled in and to the point. Think: Guacamole & Chips ($12), Refried Beans ($12), Tarasca Soup ($11), and a Barbacoa Broth ($3) that’s so balanced it deserves its own moment. There’s also a Barbacoa Plate ($25) for when you want to go all in. For dessert? Choose from Arroz Con Leche, Ricotta Flan, or an ice cream taco that’s rich, crisp and dusted with cinnamon sugar (don’t sleep on this one).

Drinks keep up, with cold Mexican beers (Corona, Modelo, Pacifico), plus a pale ale from Strange Fellows Brewing. Micheladas? Absolutely. The cocktail menu is bright and built for balance: frozen margaritas; a straight-shot jalapeño margarita (no slush, all fire); and a cantarito of tequila, citrus, and grapefruit. Then there’s the Amanacer – a simple tequila and grapefruit combo – and the mezcal-hibiscus Mystico.

But El Compa isn’t just cranking out tacos and calling it a day. Each month they’ll also be running a regional food series, digging deeper into the dishes Sanchez, Diego, and Lechuga grew up with. Expect plates that are refined but personal, designed to show just how much range Mexican cooking has by going well beyond the standard taqueria lineup.

Doors opened last week. Get in there and enjoy!

OPENING CREDITS
Carlos Sanchez | GM
Pablo Diego | Chef
Carlos Lechuga | Sous Chef
Design and Construction | Brixton Washington

El Compa

Neighbourhood: Railtown Japantown

1889 Powell St.

604-428-7975

WEBSITE