Chef Angus An’s Sainam is Now Up and Running on Davie Street

Chef Angus An’s latest opening, Sainam, is officially up and running on Davie Street. We swung by for a friends-and-family service over the weekend, and if what we tasted is any indication, this place is going to draw a lot of repeat visits.

Built as a tribute to the bold flavours of Thailand’s Isaan region, Sainam is all about fermented, fiery, and deeply savoury cooking. The menu is tight, intentional, and built for sharing. To kick things off, there were Thai-style bar snacks: crispy fried chicken wings dusted in maekwem spice and fried shallots, and fermented Isaan sausage that delivered on both snap and tang.

We kept things rolling with a series of share plates. The laab chicken (minced thigh with toasted rice, herbs, and shards of crispy skin) and nam tok ruam nua (braised beef tendon, shin, and tripe served with grilled steak and salad) were standouts — both dishes were deep with flavour and full of textural contrasts. We followed up with the kaeng om mussel and prawns (a broth-forward Isaan curry aromatic with fragrant dill and just enough white pepper) and mee krop Khon Kaen (a tamarind-glazed crispy noodle salad that hit sweet, spicy, sour, and crunch all at once). Som tum (green papaya salad) shows up in full-force, served seven ways. We tried the fried version (papaya fritters) and the corn-studded som tum khao pod. Both landed bright and punchy with heat.

Sainam’s menu is definitely not shy on spiciness, and our table was a mixed bag of palates and heat tolerance…so yes, the drinks list got a workout! With their liquor license still pending, the focus (for now) is on non-alcoholic cocktails; and honestly, I didn’t miss the booze. The lychee-rhubarb lemonade was tart and floral; and Thai iced tea came in sweet and strong. The yuzu elder margarita made with zero-proof tequila and elderflower liqueur was served in a retro Marg glass that whispered “Earls, 1998”. And the Jungle Bird riff (pineapple, non-alcoholic spiced rum, and pineapple juice) did the job nicely.

The space, in keeping with the aesthetics of Scott Cohen’s orignal work at Maenam, is actually designed (and millwork done) by An himself. Think soft light, sculptural booths, smooth archways, and contrasting details like green cushions, tropical plants, and art by George Vergette on the walls.

Sainam is open for walk-ins starting today (Tuesday, June 10th), with an “official” opening date of Friday, June 13th just around the corner. Regular hours are Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday, 5-10pm; Friday and Saturday, 5-11pm; closed on Mondays. (Count on lunch service in the near future.) In the meantime, take a look at our photos below: