by Ariel Taylor | Admittedly, I’ve been experiencing a bout of writers’ block after three days of what is politely referred to here in Cuba as “travelers’ stomach”, which was followed by a rather alarming allergic reaction to an unknown vegetable that left me as red and disorientated as a newly arrived tourist.  Needless to say, this has not been a good week for rave restaurant reviews. Still, a few days of isolation did provide some interesting insights into Havana’s tourist market (and believe me, it’s a market) and the many ways in which tourists, myself included, are courted. The game is always the same, as is the outcome.

In a city ripe with tourists willing to pay top dollar for a good time, many Cubans know that cash is available to those savvy enough to exercise some entrepreneurship. You don’t have to go far to find a self-assured young Cuban man (or woman) who would love nothing more than to suggest a tasty restaurant, turn you into a world-class salsa dancer, recount the historical significance of whatever rundown building you might be staring at, or even arrange for a prospective husband or wife (for those in search of a more permanent souvenir). The tourist pot is deep, and if stirred right, there is enough dinero to support a whole subsidiary workforce beyond the Havana’s swanky hotels. The system works on commission, and there isn’t a taxi driver, restaurant owner or tour operator who doesn’t make use of this available labour. Can you really blame them? With state wages hovering around the 20CUC a month mark (about $25CND) the prospect of some extra pocket money must be pretty compelling.

The irony of this black market is not lost on someone who has spent their academic life contemplating the cost-benefit of a communist system, and the argument that “security breeds complacency” is perhaps nowhere as evident as in Havana’s state-owned restaurants. With wages guaranteed and gratuities secured with a 10% addition to your check, you’re lucky to get a sincere “hola” let alone a polite smile when you order your mojito. It doesn’t take long to realize that the appeal of Havana’s private sector is the ability to get some bang for your buck.

Home-based restaurants – the paladares – often provide a higher quality of service, precisely because they cannot afford the bad reviews. A ban on advertising means that the best way to attract business is by word of mouth. As a result, many paladar owners will go out of their way to make sure you leave satisfied. Of course, paladares, too, make use of street level entrepreneurs (including many taxi drivers and hotel employees), and it’s not uncommon to be approached with verbal menus, special offers and ultimately an escort if you decide you like what you hear. You will rarely see the exchange of dollars for this service, but you know that a commission is nearly always reflected in the higher prices of most paladar meals. The choice is yours, but if and when you grow tired of Havana’s tourist routine there are no shortage of Cubans willing to offer an alternative. At the end of the day, whatever money you spend is undoubtedly in the pocket of an individual who is neither complacent nor idle.

READ PART ONE | READ PART TWO | READ PART THREE