If there’s any comfort to be found in the recent news of The Pie Shoppe closing, it’s that the space at 1875 Powell is being passed on to a team that knows what they’re doing. Dachi’s Miki Ellis and Stephen Whiteside are joining forces with Chef Darren Gee (Ugly Dumpling) and GM Robin Corbett (Hānai, Ugly Dumpling) to bring ‘Niwa’ to life.

Gee started his culinary path at Farmer’s Apprentice, where he developed a love for cooking with fresh, honest ingredients. He later gained recognition as the chef-owner of Ugly Dumpling on Commercial Drive. Ellis, Whiteside, Gee and Corbett share history, having worked together at Ugly Dumpling before it closed in December 2021 when Gee moved to Japan to be with his family. Earlier this summer, Gee returned from his time abroad with a fresh concept in mind. The team was quickly assembled; the only thing missing was the space.

“While we have been looking for a space for Niwa since Darren’s return in June, nothing was the right fit,” says Ellis. “I was really surprised when Steph [Stephanie French, of The Pie Shoppe] called me a few weeks back. We’ve known them for years, visiting each other’s businesses, and I’m going to miss them as neighbours…We love the neighbourhood, and are feeling fortunate to have the Pie Shoppe space entrusted to us.”

So, what’s the plan?

As Ellis explains, Niwa (which translates to “garden” in Japanese) will be a tribute to Gee’s relationship with fruits and vegetables. “Darren’s cooking has always been ingredient-driven, with a particular passion for produce. While there is a Japanese influence to his style of cooking, his biggest driver is what’s in season. He had a surprisingly large garden plot at the old Ugly Dumpling location on Commercial Drive, and he still keeps a community garden to grow rare, hard-to-find ingredients. Diners can expect this passion for produce at the heart of Niwa.”

Each dish will centre around the freshest seasonal ingredients that Gee can source, and the menu will be perpetually changing, pushing the boundaries of what “comfort food” can be when guided by someone with a sharp sense of flavour and respect for freshness. The drinks program at Niwa will have a sake-forward focus, complemented by natural wines, a few cocktails, and a limited range of beers. This edited but flexible and well-rounded formula has proven successful at its sister restaurant, Dachi, and there’s no reason it won’t work just as well at Niwa.

As for the space itself: Seating will be intimate, with room for about 30 guests. No major structural changes are on the agenda; instead, designer Claire Saksun has been brought in to reimagine the room. As Ellis explains: “We’re looking to create a space that reflects the food — simple, but with depths and details that delight once you see them. Warm and comfortable, with pockets of intimate moments within the space. Overall, it will appear simple, but have personal touches from each of us throughout the room. We’re excited to include some elegant pieces from Japan into the space, too!”

On what it was about this project that made it right for Corbett to get involved, he had this to say: “A combination of factors meant that the Niwa opportunity seemed to fall into place at the right time for me. Most importantly, the chance to work with Darren’s food and share his vision is one that’s hard to turn down. Also, with Miki and Stephen, our collective working history together has shown me that we are all aligned in terms of how we view Hospitality and the Industry as a whole. I knew it would work. But the kicker for me personally was the chance to do something different in the industry. To run a restaurant Monday to Friday hopefully provides balance to the wildness that is running a restaurant.”

Yes, you read that correctly: Niwa will be open Monday to Friday, and closed Saturdays and Sundays.

At present, the plan is to open this December. Stay tuned for more details.

Niwa

Neighbourhood: East Vancouver

1875 Powell St.

(Opening soon)