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Sipping Through The Shelves At Campagnolo Upstairs With Peter Van De Reep

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by Treve Ring | Proof positive that less is more, Peter Van de Reep’s slip of a wine list – up to a dozen selections – for Campagnolo Upstairs is a favourite of local wine keeners and industry crews. Everything on it has its place; there is no dead space, no fillers and thankfully no overt/covert ‘rep incentives’ (which are so obvious when you’re on this side of the glass). A penchant for lively, drinkable reds and vibrant whites, with a strong bent to the rare and unsung, means that his ever-changing list offers something new and interesting for novices and geeks alike. The unassuming, humble and studious Van de Reep might well be thought of as one of the latter, with a degree in geology (chat him up on the experimental deformation of carbonate rocks and the permeability of those deformations) and a previous career as a high level barista behind the bar at Elysian Coffee. Plus he loves gamay as much as I do. Let’s see what he has LISTED.

How many wines on your list? I currently have eleven wines on my list. It ranges from 7 to 12 wines depending on the availability of what I am buying.

How is your list organized? It’s rather simple with sections for sparkling, white/rose and red. Within that they’re approximately ordered from lightest to fullest in terms of body.

What one wine are you most excited about right now on your list? I am really enjoying the 2013 Gatto Pierfrancesco Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato from Piedmont. There are only 30 or so hectares of this rare grape. Really powerful aromatics. It’s incredibly floral, which is a great surprise to most people.

What’s the top selling wine on your list? I go through a fair bit of Blue Mountain’s gamay. I’m unabashedly in love with gamay and Blue Mountain does a wonderful job with it.

What’s the newest arrival on your list? I’ve just put on a tasty Chinon from Bruno and Serge Sourdais. It’s a lighter and fresher approach to Loire Cabernet Franc, but it doesn’t succumb to the problem of unripeness.

The one product you will never list? Commercially manufactured wine that has no sense of place. It’s very simple. I want wine that presents terroir.

Money/availability is no option. What one wine would you list? I would love to pour a wide selection of grower Champagne. One in particular I am fond of is Gaston Chiquet Special Club. Unfortunately there is no more of the 2005, but the 2007 is showing quite well.

Your fave food/beverage pairing currently in your restaurant? It’s hard to go wrong with a glass of Jean Paul Brun Moulin-a-Vent and a Dirty Burger. The structure of the Moulin-a-Vent works well with the dry aged beef neck.

Your insider top food/wine pairing tip? I like to look for contrast when pairing. We use a lot of pork fat, so I look for acidity to cut through the fat to give your palate a bit of a shock. That’s why riesling and Champagne are so versatile and why I like to work with lighter, juicier but not necessarily fruitier reds. If a wine makes you keep picking up your glass, it’s doing its job.

Favourite wine list in Vancouver, other than your own? I have to give the nod to Burdock & Co. They consistently wave the flag for natural wine and have the courage to list wines that challenge even seasoned drinkers. Plus, it’s down the road from my house. It’s such a pleasure to casually walk in on a Tuesday and drink world class wine by the glass.

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Campagnolo Upstairs
Neighbourhood: Main Street
1020 Main St.
604-484-6018

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