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Getting To The Bottom Of “Liquidity Wines” Viognier 2013

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by Treve Ring | Location, location, location. Liquidity Winery is flawlessly nested up in Okanagan Falls, sharing a ‘hood with Blue Mountain, Synchromesh and Meyer Family Wines, among others. Here on this picture-perfect peak between lakes Vaseux and Skaha is some of the finest terroir in the Okanagan Valley, offering ideal temperatures for cool (climate) kids pinot noir, chardonnay, gamay, and…viognier?

Liquidity Wines Viognier 2013 | Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, BC | $24

This viognier, absolutely. Though the aristocratic (if hedonistic) white grape of the Northern Rhone is fashionable, it’s tricky to manage in the vineyard, expressing its perfumed height only when yields are low. That didn’t stop winemaker Matt Holmes from giving it his all and treating the regal grape with all the attention she craves and deserves. The 2013 vintage is much more reined in and tighter than the exuberant and expressive 2012, gaining quiet confidence. Gobs of just-picked, sun-warmed apricot here, with a lovely bitter herb and wild thyme note. The full and creamy, lanolin-like palate rests in great balance with the key lime acidity and spiced finish. 80% wild ferment introduces a herbal intrigue, and 20% barrel ferment lends a well-worn suppleness to the whole. Only 465 cases – not that you needed another excuse to drive up to Okanagan Falls…

Straight up – why did you make this wine? I was inspired by stories from around the world describing skin contact white fermentations – part of the natural wine movement or a return to Georgian wine practices in many cases. Our viogniers from 2012 and 2013 are only about 10% skin fermented in the final blend, but I find it brings a more complete array of real fruit character: the taste of apricot skin, pulp and seed rather than just apricot juice, for example.

Where are the grapes from? We have 1.5 acres on site (planted in 2005 and 2008) and buy additional fruit from the excellent Blind Creek vineyard in the Similkameen Valley.

Your ideal pairing with these wines would be…? I think it’s a versatile food wine given the texture: creamy fall mushroom pasta, nut crusted fish, pulled pork or (shameless plug) anything from the Liquidity Bistro: the view is directly over the Viognier block, after all…

Favourite BC wine, other than yours? I can’t get enough of the OK Falls wines, but if I looked further afield I’d say Tightrope from Naramata, Eau Vivre from the Similkameen, and Stoneboat in Oliver have been on my dinner table pretty regularly this year.

What do you drink when you’re not drinking BC wine? My go to wine regions are Chablis and Barolo, with red Burgundy (when I can afford it), German Riesling and Sonoma Coast/Anderson Valley Pinot Noir not far behind. On a hot day I’ve also been known to have a beer!

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