Okanagablog: La Chaîne

The Chagall Tapestry

Did you know there was a fancy French club with an international membership devoted to celebrating fine dining? Up until recently, I didn’t. Welcome to La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, and leave your jeans at home, thank you very much.

I had the very good fortune to attend a Chaîne induction dinner in the Chagall Room at Mission Hill Family Estate on Saturday night. Hosted by MH executive chef (and Chaîne member) Michael Allemeier and his killer kitchen team, the event welcomed five new Kelowna members including representation from Mission Hill, Cabana Grille, Fresco, Tantalus Vineyards and Quail’s Gate Winery.

“The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is an international gastronomic society devoted to promoting fine dining and preserving the camaraderie and pleasures of the table. Although the modern day Chaîne began in 1950, the traditions and practices are based on those of the old French guild of roasters, whose written history dates to 1248.” (linkage – Chaine Canada)

It was posh indeed, and Mission Hill is stunning (duh). But really really stunning when you’re alone at night. The group of about 45 had the winery all to itself.

Ned Bell being knighted

The evening began with the induction ceremonies. The head of Chaîne Canada, David Tetrault, had flown into Kelowna from Calgary to conduct the ceremony which involved swords and sashes, oaths and medals. It felt a bit DaVinci Code but things around these parts, Vancouver included, could use a little formality now and then. It was fun and novel to rub shoulders with people who take their food and drink seriously.

The ceremony concluded with a reception that included MH’s first vintage of rosé and some swish canapés including a delicious pork belly spoon. Then chef Allemeier rallied the group out into the MH courtyard. The bell rang continuously from its commanding tower during the short walk to the Chagall Room where the new inductees were to be honoured. Totally cool and pretty surreal.

I had the best seat in the house, next to the fireplace with a prime view of the famed Chagall tapestry hung above a black baby grand piano. The six-course dinner was exquisite. Michael Allemeier rocks. The crowd favourite seemed to be the ballontine of Guinea Hen, recognized by the experts in attendance for its nod to history and technique. My favourite course was the Maple Lake rainbow trout and sugar pumpkin croquette paired with the ’04 Select Lot Collection Merlot.

Wade Stark tickling the ivories

It was a blast. Though I’d seen the tapestry before, I was wowed by the giant Chagall all night long and MH assistant winemaker Wade Stark displayed several hidden talents to the crowd, among them stand up comedy, mad piano-playing skills, and a group serenade. It was fantastic, though I’d expected a stuffy evening.

I did, however, poke some fun at the Chaîne. It seems the “1248 to 1950″ emblazoned on their crest represents the 702 years that the group was not active. Umm…ok. Sure. I guess I could list the number of years I have not been a doctor, a gold-medalist, or an astronaut, though some might think it a bit odd.

In all, it turned out to be a very enjoyable evening of unexpected talent, engaging conversation with tablemates Jane Hatch and Warwick Shaw of Tantalus Vineyards, and a truly superb meal.

Okanagablog: Eating P-Town

Joy Road doling out the goodies at the Penticton Farmer

Saturday, October 25 was the last Penticton Farmer’s Market of the season and I was pretty bummed as it’s definitely my favourite thing about the P-town. So off I went to eat my usual market breakfast feast and quickly learned why the market shuts down in the fall.

A wind-tossed tent lands on top of another

The number of stalls had dropped significantly since my last visit two weeks prior and the wind had made its blustery presence known. Tents blew up and over, hat stands came down with a crash, and leaves circled hurricane-like along with my hair.

I was surprised at how quickly the market atmosphere had changed, and instead of lazily loitering around the City Hall stairs eating this and that I headed straight to the good folks at Joy Road Catering for my usual seasonal fruit galette, cinnamon bun, and homemade granola. It’s more than I can (or should) eat but I need a taste of everything and like to lend my support, especially with it being the last market.

Dietz's bison sausage at the last Penticton Farmer's Market

Then it’s off to the Dietz sausage truck for a bison smokie loaded with sauerkraut and mustard. A look back down Main Street saw most stalls losing their tents and in danger of having their wares swept away. I guess it’s time to shut down the season.

I know the producers, farmers, chefs, bakers, knitters, chocolatiers, soap and candle makers have been working so hard since the early spring and are probably quite looking forward to the break. Cam Smith and Dana Ewart of Joy Road told me they were hosting 75 people for an end-of-season shindig at their place that night and were off to Maui the next day, and if anyone deserves a whole lot of R&R, it’s those two.

I also tried out a couple other restaurants in Penticton this weekend at opposite ends of spectrum. The seven month old Lee’s Fusion, a stylish addition to the city close to my part of town (Skaha Lake), and the fifty year old (plus) Capitol diner downtown on Main.

The Capitol has been under the same ownership for its entire existence – a couple from Greece. A little standoffish at first perhaps but owner Vicky warmed up 100% following some interest shown in her kitchen and history. Lunch Friday afternoon was a six dollar plate of bacon and eggs, served with four slices of toast and some pretty decent diner coffee. Remember when coffee cups held 6oz? Dig waaaay back.

The food was average and the atmosphere totally dated but there is something pretty cool about hanging out and watching the world go by in a place that has weathered many decades and is still around to serve locals their liver and onions.

We hit Lee’s Friday evening around 8:30pm, later than the norm in P-town, but there were a fair amount of people inside. We were happy to see that the seafood was Oceanwise and that all three types of Masa Shiroki’s Granville Island-produced Osake sake were on the menu. We had a few plates of good, if rice-heavy sushi, some toro and salmon sashimi, and my favourite: chopped scallop nigiri. Downing multiple teensy glasses of the mid-level sake option, we still ended up with half a bottle to take home…

The Crazy Grape Stomp

An overzealous competitor at Grape Stomp.

Strange times. I was one of four judges in the annual Grape Stomp here in Penticton last night. The competing teams were allowed to do anything to sway the judges, so it wasn’t exactly a quantifiable contest. At one point I had several shooters lined up in front of me (and in me), some cookies, scratch and win tickets, dollar coins, Mardi Gras beads, and bottles of wine whilst a revolving brace of women in various states of undress, intoxication, and age massaged me in earnest. Very odd. Slept like a baby at the Apple D’Or.

Kate’s Okanagablog #1

Last November, I inexplicably bought a not-yet-completed condo near Skaha Lake in Penticton. I knew I was there for a reason, I just didn’t know what it was. In the spring that followed, a visiting Vancouver food writer likened my move to Penticton to Eva Gabor taking up residence on Green Acres Farm. She wasn’t far off.

Fortunately, I had an interim public relations contract with the local tourism board which gave me access to many of the city’s movers and shakers (yes, there are lots), plus plenty of inside information.

Since then, I’ve split my time between the Okanagan and Vancouver about 60/40, joined as always by my constant companion, Otis the pug. He’s been on this Okanagan adventure too, and, like me, his favourite place to be is the Penticton Farmer’s Market. He likes to sniff the local canines and scourge the jackpot of scraps and crumbs. As for me, I like the feeling of community, possibility, and fun. And the food is pretty incredible, too.

So the Okanagan has been good to me. People like Penticton & Wine Country Tourism’s Kelly Reid have shared their knowledge and contacts, and while I was slow to make friends, I was quick to build business and I’ve learned to really appreciate the Okanagan, both its history and the promise of its future.

I am a foodie, but not a food or wine writer by any stretch. My career for the past nine years has allowed me to eat and drink at some of the best restaurants in Vancouver, throughout BC and in many cities around the world. So while an expert by no means I’m not a total slouch either.

I’m excited to share some of my experiences with you with a sense of levity, and glad to have this first post out of the way…

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