Marc Lepine, chef at Ottawa’s famed Atelier and the current Canadian Culinary Champion, cooked an amazing meal for judges, Canadian Olympians (that’s Jamie Salé with all those black truffles) and special guests up on Big White last night. Seeing as the competitions start tonight, it was billed as his “last supper”. We weren’t disappointed. Lepine cooked a great many things, among them kusshi oysters sexed up with horseradish foam and foie gras croquettes floating in chanterelle soup, but the meat course was my favourite: insanely marbled wagyu beef striploin on hot and buttery corn juice with shavings of black truffle and dollops of truffle sour cream. It was as good as it looks, ending his reign on the highest of notes.
by Andrew Morrison | A shockingly good dinner went down the other night at South Granville’s celebrated West Restaurant. This year’s Canadian Culinary Champion, Marc Lepine of Ottawa’s Atelier, was behind the line collaborating on courses with West chef Quang Dang. It’s hard to say which of their many dishes was the best of the lot (I was pretty partial to the slow-cooked pork belly with the ’09 Whitehaven “Greg” Series Pinot Noir), but the entirety was one of the best meals I’ve had so far this year, right up there with The Pointe at the Wick, Sonora Island Resort, and Chez Panisse. From start to finish, everything about it was seamless.
I had the good fortune to be on hand in Kelowna for the Culinary Championships this past February and was floored by what I saw and tasted from Lepine. The competition threw low food costs, harsh time constraints, mystery wines and a black box full of “who knows?” ingredients at the mild-mannered chef, yet he excelled. I mean this with no disrespect to his fellow competitors, but he quietly and confidently made short work of them. It was a freakish thing to behold, and it was not something that I or any of the other judges expected, especially with chefs like Rob Feenie and JeanPhillipe St-Denis in the mix. I’ve yet to eat at Atelier, but wow do I ever mean to!
Equally impressive on the evening, of course, was Dang and the whole operation at West. These days, most of the new restaurants that I test drive for work are decidedly more casual affairs, so it was a cozy thing indeed to see the orchestration of fine dining up close again. I couldn’t possibly do it every day, but from time to time it’s nice to be deliciously reminded of what the high end is all about. Take a look below…
Andrew Morrison lives and works in Vancouver as editor-in-chief of Scout, food columnist at the Westender, and National Referee & Judge at the Canadian Culinary Championships. He also contributes regularly to a wide range of publications, radio programs, and television shows on local food, culture and travel; collects inexpensive things; and enjoys rare birds, skateboards, cocktails, shoes, good pastas, many songs, and the smell of camp fires.
The GOODS from West Restaurant
Vancouver, BC | Executive Chef Quang Dang is proud to present a Guest Chef Series at West this autumn, with an exciting round up of chefs who represent the next generation of culinary achievement across North America. “We’re tremendously excited to welcome these three outstanding chefs to West,” Dang said, “they are truly some of the finest talents on the continent.”
Beginning on August 28th, Chef Dang welcomes Chef Jeremy Charles from St-John’s, Newfoundland. Chef Charles is the incredible talent behind widely acclaimed Raymonds restaurant, recently named best new restaurant for 2012 by EnRoute magazine. Chef Dang and Chef Charles will present a unique “East meets West” menu, featuring favourite ingredients from the two coasts. Wines will be carefully paired with each dish, in partnership with some of Canada’s top wineries, including Tantalus, Laughing Stock and Pilliteri Estates.
On October 2nd, renowned Chef Marc Lepine will join Chef Dang at West for a collaborative seven-course dinner – whereby each chef will challenge the other to create alternate courses based on specific criteria and ingredients. Chef Lepine was named Canadian Culinary Champion in February 2012, and took home the winning title at the Gold Metal Plates in 2011 – while his Ottawa restaurant Atelier has consistently been recognized as one of the best in Canada.
Finally, on Sunday November 11th, Chef Dang welcomes special guest Mourad Lalouh, Executive Chef at Michelin-starred Aziza in San Francisco, to celebrate the launch of his new book ‘Mourad is Moroccan’. The seven-course menu will be inspired by recipes from the book, as prepared by Chef Dang and Chef Lalouh. Presented in partnership with Bombay Sapphire, the menu will be paired with original cocktails by West’s very own David Wolowydnik, the reigning ‘World’s Most Imaginative Bartender’… Read more