Food Media Omnibus #528: No Fun City To Relax Booze Laws? Pfft!

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In the Globe & Mail, Alexandra Gill writes about Chinese moon cakes. Without any blood splattered, I closed the newspaper feeling deflated, as if I’d been robbed of my weekly Tarantino-directed car crash starring Carrie Bradshaw.

In the Vancouver Sun, Mia Stainsby is very pleased with The Diamond and Joanne Lee-Young explains the deal with Alain Raye opening a La Regalade in the Philippines.

In the Westender, I review Stella’s on Cambie. Plenty of mistakes and almosts, but a swell neighbourhood joint nonetheless.

The Times Colonist talks to Jo Zambri of Victoria’s award-winning Zambri’s.

Whistler’s Pique confirms that Araxi’s executive chef James Walt is definitely one of the coolest dudes wearing whites today.

In the North Shore News, Deana Lancaster checks out meal prep house, Indishpensable.

The Georgia Straight wonders if the city council dinosaurs are slowly evolving from their seemingly permanent puritanical stupor regarding our liquor laws. Psst. No. Though the article certainly shapes a case for tangible progress, don’t count on anything material in the near future beyond a few Potemkin allowances made during the Olympics (so we don’t all look like pubescent dweebs to the global grown-ups). Whether we want to admit it or not, City Hall is still a place where good ideas that combat Vancouver’s international reputation as a yawn-accelerating glass house are put to death and ineloquently eulogized. Why? Because those of the chamber invariably consider the opinions of people who wouldn’t know a good time if it sat directly on top of their faces. Seriously, come hither, dear comet. I really think we’re ready.

Also in the Straight, Jurgen Gothe digs Malbec for Fall and – ahem – Yellowtail Shiraz/Grenache.

Cherries and Clay: still a freakin’ awesome website, even if one its publishers can waltz into a room and instantly win 2 weeks in Chile by dropping his business card in a fishbowl (damn you, Kurtis).

All Anticipated Openings

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The NYT In Vancouver Searching For “Accidentally” Asian Food…

September 23, 2009 

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The interior of Ping's on Main Street | © ScoutMagazine.ca

Today’s interesting, very well researched piece by The New York Times’ Frugal Traveller taught me a few things about my own gastronomic backyard as it weaved its way through Vancouver’s diversity of Asian cuisines and influences. For example:

But it also helps to know that Ping’s was once, a couple of decades ago, a Chinese-Canadian restaurant, the kind of greasy, not very exciting place you’d probably avoid. But according to my dinner companions, Alec and Karen Tsang, for a few years of that time, the children of the original owners of Ping’s would take over the restaurant in the evening, rechristening it Ping’s at Night and serving innovative, often vegetarian food in a room lit by black lights. It was a secret then, and an awesome one. The present-day Ping’s Cafe is related only by accident — the new owners found the old awning and decided to keep the name — but unknowingly carries on its tradition of creativity.

Hmm, cool + tip of the hat, NYT. Read the whole piece here. It also touches on Japadog, Rangoli, the Argo Cafe, and Cambie’s Cafe Gloucester.

Food Media Omnibus #526: On Mis Trucos Love And Wine Scandals

September 18, 2009 

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In the Vancouver Sun, Mia Stainsby goes back to school at the Dirty Apron and positively reviews Mis Trucos while spirits journo Joanne Sasvari tries on some tiki cocktails and Anthony Gismondi tells of a Canadian wine scandal that should cost some bureaucrat jackasses their tongues (Gordon Hamilton elaborates).

In the Vancouver Courier, Tim Pawsey also digs Davie’s new Mis Trucos.

In the Globe and Mail, Alexandra Gill applauds the look of the new Keg in Yaletown but pooh poohs its big box culinary limitations. Also, Beppi Crosariol does a good job having a good job.

I write up La Taqueria in the Westender. Read more

Food Media Omnibus #525: The Financial Times Pays Van A Visit

September 10, 2009 

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In the Georgia Straight, Kate Dubensky investigates Vancouver’s many banh mi (Vietnamese sub) sandwich options and Jurgen Gothe goes sipping off the beaten path.

In Whistler’s Pique, we learn that after a crappy winter, business boomed for the alpine resort town’s restaurants.

The best, most fascinating story I’ve ever read on local octopus, and I’ve read none plenty.

In the Vancouver Sun, Mia Stainsby interviews celebrity chef David Rocco, star of the The Food Network show Dolce Vita. Read more

Food Media Omnibus #525: New Restaurants & HST Battle Cries

Food Media Omnibus: who wrote what about Vancouver's food and restaurant scene this week...

Food Media Omnibus: who wrote what about Vancouver's food and restaurant scene this week...

Tim Pawsey digs Nook on Denman St. in the Vancouver Courier.

I do a cover story on upcoming new restaurants for the Westender (Corner Suite, Bao Bei, Pourhouse, The Keefer Bar).

In the Globe & Mail, Alexandra Gill sails over to Bowen Island to sample the food and drink. She slams Doc Morgan’s Pub & Restaurant but loves Blue Eyed Mary’s, Snug Cafe, and Artisan Eats Café & Fine Foods. Also in the Globe, food writers Alexandra Gill and Chris Johns (interview) take reader questions on what it’s like being a restaurant critic.

Deana Lancaster pens a great recap of the 1st ever Okanagan Feast of Fields for the North Shore News.

Our farming friends Virginia and Jens Jacobsen of Polderside Farms (the best poultry in BC) get profiled in the Chilliwack Times.

The Vancouver Sun lets us know that Vancouver watering holes and restaurants are failing to adhere to LCLB rules regarding alcoholic beverage sizes and prices. Wow. Like, gotcha! Also in the Sun, superstar chef Jean Georges Vongerichten writes up his staff at Market.

Times Colonist: Some Victoria restaurants are preparing to battle the big bad BC Liberals over their hated HST by annoying their own generous guests with information slips and petitions. Psst. Customers look to be led away from the real world by restaurants, not steered back towards it. Ancient restaurant proverb says: to fight the power, one must first fight the dumb.

Balls: late night staff at West Van’s Village Taphouse confront and scare off armed and disguised robbers.

Food Media Omnibus #524: On Coast And At Home With Harry K

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Food Media Omnibus: who wrote what about Vancouver's food and restaurant scene this week...

Mia Stainsby writes on life at home with restaurateur Harry Kambolis (C, Nu, Raincity) and his wife Michelle in the Vancouver Sun.

Alexandra Gill writes up the new Coast positively in the Globe & Mail. Owner Emad Yacoub points out to her that his out-of-the-gate glut of customers are the rounders, that “trendy flock of scenesters who swoop through the hottest new places to see and be seen”. Best quote I’ve since heard in reaction to that line: “everyone else just calls them douchebags”.

I do much of the same in the Westender. Read more

Food Media Omnibus #523: Lost Balls, Dead Birds And Good Eats

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I review Chaise Lounge for the Westender and suffer food and cooking with “all the ambition of a dead bird nailed to the ground.” Ugh. Here’s hoping things improve in the short run…

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The Georgia Straight reviews restaurants trapped in select Lower Mainland golf clubhouses, including Langara, where the atmosphere is apparently “flawless”. Wow. Shank. Good luck finding your ball…

Also in the Straight, Judith Lane goes in search of hidden and otherwise unlikely patios (a good story idea). Even though Mis Trucos isn’t open yet, there were some very good options set forward (Cassis is bang on). I only wish it was much longer, as I could use the direction. To the mix I’d add Flying Tiger and – if we’re just talking drinks – The New Bohemian. Also, not many folks know about the upper deck at the Beach House (pictured in the carousel).

Anya Levykh purrs over Coal Harbour’s undersung Irashai Grill.

Alexandra Gill digs The Diamond in the Globe & Mail. Honestly, what’s not to dig? This is one of the coolest, most affordable, and best articulated rooms to open so far this year…

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In the North Shore News, Deana Lancaster trips across the border to Seattle.

The Vancouver Courier wades into the HST mess, concentrating on how it might impact servers.

In the Vancouver Sun, Joanne Sasvari is charmed by North Vancouver’s new Salt conceptual copycat, Lolo. It sounds great, but I’m not sure it’s accurate to call Lower Lonsdale trendy. If you spend much time there you’ll notice it’s sort of like calling the downtown east side clean. Also, though it has nothing to do with food, be sure to read this probing Sun story on why journalism is dying a slow, painful, and well deserved death.

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ALL RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS

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Food Media Omnibus #522: Scary Restaurant Locations & Taxes

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a late afternoon good time at The Diamond on Gastown's Gassy Jack Square...

This week in the Globe & Mail, Alexandra Gill goes on a Julia & Julia safari by reviewing Le Crocodile (where they make French food, get it?) and then – in a separate feature – rating foodie movies according to their fealty to realism. Rather amazingly, her number one pick is Ratatouille, a cartoon about a rat who cooks. Go figure. I heart Alex. Read more

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