Deana Lancaster Does Shrooms And Eats Horse at L’Altro Buca

by Deana Lancaster | It’s autumn. Curled and broken leaves layer the sidewalk like sodden paper mâché, and a cement sky is gray with rain. It’s my favourite season, but still, it weighs heavily. Time to pull the crock-pot from its hiding place behind the toaster and load it with browned meat, fistfuls of herbs, and wild mushrooms that taste of the forest they were found in.

Even better: to slip into the quiet, art deco elegance of L’Altro Buca in the West End to satisfy my craving for crispy-skinned meats and the lusty flavours of fungi at Andrey Durbach’s annual Game and Wild Mushroom Festival. The ingredients that Durbach sources – locally foraged morels, chanterelles, matsutake, porcini and field mushrooms – are more varied and pristine than what I can dig up (figuratively, if not literally), and his cooking is much more refined than I can accomplish (with crock-pot or not). Read more

Food Media Omnibus #529: Top 50 Things To Scarf In Vancouver

Stephanie (and a margarita) from Lolita's on the cover of this week's Westender

In the Westender, I do a cover story recommending 50 of my favourite things to eat or drink in Vancouver.

In the Globe and Mail, Alexandra Gill and Chris Johns do a strange he said she said on the end of Gourmet. That’s two weeks in a row for Gill sans review. Seriously, that’s enough. Read more

Food Media Omnibus #528: No Fun City To Relax Booze Laws? Pfft!

In the Globe & Mail, Alexandra Gill writes about Chinese moon cakes. Without any blood splattered, I closed the newspaper feeling deflated, as if I’d been robbed of my weekly Tarantino-directed car crash starring Carrie Bradshaw.

In the Vancouver Sun, Mia Stainsby is very pleased with The Diamond and Joanne Lee-Young explains the deal with Alain Raye opening a La Regalade in the Philippines.

In the Westender, I review Stella’s on Cambie. Plenty of mistakes and almosts, but a swell neighbourhood joint nonetheless.

The Times Colonist talks to Jo Zambri of Victoria’s award-winning Zambri’s.

Whistler’s Pique confirms that Araxi’s executive chef James Walt is definitely one of the coolest dudes wearing whites today.

In the North Shore News, Deana Lancaster checks out meal prep house, Indishpensable.

The Georgia Straight wonders if the city council dinosaurs are slowly evolving from their seemingly permanent puritanical stupor regarding our liquor laws. Psst. No. Though the article certainly shapes a case for tangible progress, don’t count on anything material in the near future beyond a few Potemkin allowances made during the Olympics (so we don’t all look like pubescent dweebs to the global grown-ups). Whether we want to admit it or not, City Hall is still a place where good ideas that combat Vancouver’s international reputation as a yawn-accelerating glass house are put to death and ineloquently eulogized. Why? Because those of the chamber invariably consider the opinions of people who wouldn’t know a good time if it sat directly on top of their faces. Seriously, come hither, dear comet. I really think we’re ready.

Also in the Straight, Jurgen Gothe digs Malbec for Fall and – ahem – Yellowtail Shiraz/Grenache.

Cherries and Clay: still a freakin’ awesome website, even if one its publishers can waltz into a room and instantly win 2 weeks in Chile by dropping his business card in a fishbowl (damn you, Kurtis).

All Anticipated Openings

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Food Media Omnibus #526: On Mis Trucos Love And Wine Scandals

In the Vancouver Sun, Mia Stainsby goes back to school at the Dirty Apron and positively reviews Mis Trucos while spirits journo Joanne Sasvari tries on some tiki cocktails and Anthony Gismondi tells of a Canadian wine scandal that should cost some bureaucrat jackasses their tongues (Gordon Hamilton elaborates).

In the Vancouver Courier, Tim Pawsey also digs Davie’s new Mis Trucos.

In the Globe and Mail, Alexandra Gill applauds the look of the new Keg in Yaletown but pooh poohs its big box culinary limitations. Also, Beppi Crosariol does a good job having a good job.

I write up La Taqueria in the Westender. Read more

Food Media Omnibus #525: The Financial Times Pays Van A Visit

In the Georgia Straight, Kate Dubensky investigates Vancouver’s many banh mi (Vietnamese sub) sandwich options and Jurgen Gothe goes sipping off the beaten path.

In Whistler’s Pique, we learn that after a crappy winter, business boomed for the alpine resort town’s restaurants.

The best, most fascinating story I’ve ever read on local octopus, and I’ve read none plenty.

In the Vancouver Sun, Mia Stainsby interviews celebrity chef David Rocco, star of the The Food Network show Dolce Vita. Read more

Saying Goodbye To Summer At The Gorgeous End Of The World

Since I left university I’ve grown accustomed to treating September as the best part of August, a sigh that lasts for 30 days. Over the summer, however, I remembered that when kids reach school age, September reverts back to its original bummer state for the parents. That’s me now, with irrational worries pinned to pencil cases and lunch bags cancelling that second bottle of wine. With one in grade 2 and another still a year out from kindergarten, I’m looking at 13 years, maximum insecurity.  Read more

Food Media Omnibus #525: New Restaurants & HST Battle Cries

Food Media Omnibus: who wrote what about Vancouver's food and restaurant scene this week...

Tim Pawsey digs Nook on Denman St. in the Vancouver Courier.

I do a cover story on upcoming new restaurants for the Westender (Corner Suite, Bao Bei, Pourhouse, The Keefer Bar).

In the Globe & Mail, Alexandra Gill sails over to Bowen Island to sample the food and drink. She slams Doc Morgan’s Pub & Restaurant but loves Blue Eyed Mary’s, Snug Cafe, and Artisan Eats Café & Fine Foods. Also in the Globe, food writers Alexandra Gill and Chris Johns (interview) take reader questions on what it’s like being a restaurant critic.

Deana Lancaster pens a great recap of the 1st ever Okanagan Feast of Fields for the North Shore News.

Our farming friends Virginia and Jens Jacobsen of Polderside Farms (the best poultry in BC) get profiled in the Chilliwack Times.

The Vancouver Sun lets us know that Vancouver watering holes and restaurants are failing to adhere to LCLB rules regarding alcoholic beverage sizes and prices. Wow. Like, gotcha! Also in the Sun, superstar chef Jean Georges Vongerichten writes up his staff at Market.

Times Colonist: Some Victoria restaurants are preparing to battle the big bad BC Liberals over their hated HST by annoying their own generous guests with information slips and petitions. Psst. Customers look to be led away from the real world by restaurants, not steered back towards it. Ancient restaurant proverb says: to fight the power, one must first fight the dumb.

Balls: late night staff at West Van’s Village Taphouse confront and scare off armed and disguised robbers.

So Your Kid Wants To Be A Restaurant Critic?

I’m not as appalled as the Slate magazine writer who complained about the emergence of the child foodie movement. Actually, the NY Times story about 12-year-old restaurant critic David Fishman is a gem. Clearly, he’ll have to get sorted on the note-taking while on the job — these days, most critics are using their smartphones — but otherwise he’s on the right track…especially by sampling the tripe. A chicken fingers-only diet won’t cut it if you want to be a food writer — you’ve got to be willing to sample the surprising, the intimidating…the downright unappetizing. So I’m not feeling threatened in my own food editor gig. The number of North American youngsters who will opt for offal over McMeat is infinitesimal, frankly. I am more befuddled by the magazine’s feature, Cooking with Dexter. Are we to believe that this four-year-old drinks “two ounces of good, strong coffee” every morning (after grinding his own beans, to boot)? His dad, and writer of the piece, Times dining editor Pete Wells, is obviously unhinged. Or at least, he soon will be, with a pre-schooler all hopped up on caffeine running amok.

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Deana Lancaster is an authentic pop culture vulture who will cop to an addiction to EW.com that is as insatiable as those she has for all things gourmet, great shoes, cool tunes and the Huffington Post. A 12-year staffer at the North Shore News, she serves as the paper’s food & wine editor, features editor, and dabbles in some selective freelancing. If she’s not at her computer, she’s likely hanging with her family — or depending on the season — surfing at Long Beach or snowboarding Cypress.

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An Open Fan Letter To Donavon Frankenreiter

Oh, Donavon (Frankenreiter),

I don’t even care how, well . . . toasted you seemed at the Commodore on Tuesday night during your aptly titled Pass It Around show. There’s something about the way you play a guitar and sing those sandy, sun-kissed tunes that makes me long for a summer drive to Long Beach; and the vibe in the room was just so warm and happy. From the soothing slices of tropical-hued beach tunes from your eponymous first album, through the funkier ’70s-flavoured tracks from Move By Yourself, and back to the mellow on Pass it Around (especially those poppy horn hooks in the song Your Heart) I — and everybody else on that famous dance floor — was digging it.

I like your pal Gary Jules too. We were thinking we’d just skip the opening act (headed to Salt for killer cheese and wine combos) but he came on late and I’m glad for it. Like everyone else in the room we talked through his first couple of songs, until we started to hear them, and then we were inexplicably drawn closer to the stage to listen to his stripped-down folk-rock.

On this night anyway, the crowd spilling out onto Granville Street at the end of the show was a shiny, happy bunch.

Thanks for that.

Yours truly,

Deana

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Deana Lancaster is an authentic pop culture vulture who will cop to an addiction to EW.com that is as insatiable as those she has for all things gourmet, great shoes, cool tunes and the Huffington Post. A 12-year staffer at the North Shore News, she serves as the paper’s food & wine editor, features editor, and dabbles in some selective freelancing. If she’s not at her computer, she’s likely hanging with her family — or depending on the season — surfing at Long Beach or snowboarding Cypress.

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Defrost The Visa For Economic Stimulus’ Sake

All this talk of economic stimulus is working. . .I’m stimulated already! My fingers are all a-tingle to defrost the Visa and go shopping. Must. Hold. Back.

The BC Home + Garden Show is not where you’d expect to fall in love. Well, with a hot, toolbelt-wearing contractor perhaps, but not with a necklace. And yet, that’s just what happened when I was there late last month. In the mini Portobello West marketplace I found North Shore jewelry designer Trudy Wynans. She’s the creative force behind Toodlebunny Designs; and don’t let the cute name fool you — her alluring work has some feisty rock-and-roll edge. I fell hard for a slender tusk on a long gold chain . . . I’m putting it on my wishlist for spring. The rest of you are free to peruse and purchase from her many other pieces: multi-strand necklaces, mismatched earrings, offbeat charm bracelets. If you’d like to look at her work in person rather than online, make plans to attend the first Portobello West Fashion & Art Market of the season, March 28 and 29 at the Rocky Mountaineer Station.

Joe Fresh Style cosmetics

New at Superstore this week: Joe Fresh Style cosmetics. I was there picking up cereal, and tossed a tinted lip balm and eyeshadow trio into my basket. The packaging is sleek, the products feel and smell lovely, and they make the grocery budget: they top out at $8.

Score Tahari, Tracy Reese, Michael Kors, Rich and Skinny. . .my fingers are getting fatigued here, so I’ll leave you to discover the other designers at the Wear Else warehouse sale yourself. Thursday March 5, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.; Friday March 6, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.; Saturday March 7 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. 28 West 7^th Ave., Vancouver.

If you’re cruising around Coquitlam this weekend (and if you’re not, you may want to head in that direction. East, I think.) be sure to hit the Marilyn’s warehouse sale. Among the lines offered at 50 to 80 per cent off are Betsey Johnson, Nicole Miller, Rock & Republic, Paige, Joes; plus there’s an extra 20 per cent off on Saturday. Friday March 6, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m; Saturday March 7, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. Executive Plaza, 405 North Rd., Coquitlam.

Nanette

Now let’s be clear, while I am an ardent admirer of the work that many of today’s top designers do, I can’t afford it (seriously: $2,000 for a purse?). I’m more likely to troll the blogs, surf the websites, and shop the sample sales than pay full retail. Or I’ll style my look after theirs, using my own thrifty ways and means. Let’s take Nanette Lepore for example. I heart her. And perhaps because it’s an unrequited sort of love I entertain regular fantasies about her pretty colour palettes, ruffles and delicate beading details. Her spring collection is no exception. Forget the mood-killer of dour deflation colour schemes, this “exotic garden” is a lovely jumble of apple green, poppy and turquoise, balanced against warm cocoa brown. Delicious! I’ll be looking for ways to emulate the line when I shop my own closet, and if she ever does create budget clothes with H&M or Target, I will beat you all down to get there first (yeah, that’s right…I said you). In the meantime, if I meet you at a cocktail party and you strike up a conversation about this very column, please understand that by Recessionista I am not referring to 10% off a $1,000 suit at Holt’s. I get excited when I score $6 lipgloss at the grocery store (see above). That’s what I’m talking about.

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Deana Lancaster is an authentic pop culture vulture who will cop to an addiction to EW.com that is as insatiable as those she has for all things gourmet, great shoes, cool tunes and the Huffington Post. A 12-year staffer at the North Shore News, she serves as the paper’s food & wine editor, features editor, and dabbles in some selective freelancing. If she’s not at her computer, she’s likely hanging with her family — or depending on the season — surfing at Long Beach or snowboarding Cypress.

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