Westender Review #253: “Finer Diner ‘Cafeteria’ Opens Strong”

My review of Main St.’s new Cafeteria in this week’s Westender:

by Andrew Morrison | It’s not uncommon for eagerly anticipated new restaurants to fall flat on their faces. The service can be skittish, the food unevenly prepared, and the vibe altogether unsettled, but that’s only to be expected with new rooms. I tend to give them the benefit of the doubt, usually by paying them three separate visits. One can’t expect (though it’s entirely reasonable to demand) perfection during the first few weeks. Mistakes — even a horrendous one, or two — are the norm. One dines accordingly, as if in a minefield.

That said, on very rare occasions, a restaurant comes along that’s a genuine pleasure to review straight out of the gate. Cafeteria is one of those. Having opened two weeks ago at Main and 11th, it’s without any noticeable flaws and drunk on that most elusive of hospitality cocktails: experience, mixed with confidence, and good luck. One visit was enough, but I went twice because I liked it so much. Read more

Seen In Vancouver #240: Already Lining Up At Main’s “Cafeteria”

A quick shot from the line-up at the new restaurant Cafeteria (Main and 11th) taken mid-rush in its first week. I’ve been a couple times now, once because it’s sort of my job and twice because I particularly enjoy gorgonzola and mustard creams bathing my schnitzel. They don’t take reservations (the easily inconvenienced have my condolences).

Durbach & Stewart Softly Open “Cafeteria” At 2702 Main Street

Cafeteria will open its doors softly to friends and family tonight (public this weekend). The new 30 seat restaurant comes to us from industry vets Andrey Durbach and Chris Stewart. As you may recall, they sold their L’Altro Buca restaurant (previously Parkside) in the West End to Carol and Luciano Loi of Adesso Bistro a couple of months ago in order to purchase the Ping’s spot at 2702 Main (details all here).

The focus won’t be cuisine-specific like their two other restaurants, La Buca (Italian) and Pied-a-Terre (French), and much like the original Parkside, the menu will travel quite a bit. They’re aiming for “super casual”, with no dish large or small trespassing beyond the $20 mark. In the end, what I imagine we’ll end up seeing is a playground for chef Durbach’s creativity, which is never a bad thing. All told, I’d count this as a huge win for Main.

I popped in before the doors were unlocked earlier tonight. Click through the menu and the room below…

ALL ANTICIPATED OPENINGS

Durbach & Stewart Sell L’Altro Buca & Buy Ping’s Cafe On Main

Chris Stewart and Andrey Durbach (interview) have sold their L’Altro Buca restaurant (formerly Parkside) on Haro St. in the West End to Luciano Loi, who once upon a time owned a Ligurian trat in Kits called Adesso Bistro (now a fratty surf joint called KarV). The ink on the sale has only been dry for a few days, but it’s been long enough for Stewart and Durbach to pounce on a new space – Ping’s Cafe at 2702 Main Street.

We’re working under the assumption that Luciano will likely reprise his regional Italian theme in the L’Altro Buca location (another Adesso Bistro perhaps) but what Stewart and Durbach are going to do on Main is not a total lock. Though this only just happened this morning and they don’t take possession until May 18th, we can tell you that they’re looking to execute a quick turnaround with an opening date set for mid-June. Read more

L’Altro Buca’s Fresh, Affordable Approach To Post-Olympic Dining

News from Scout supporter L’Altro Buca

Vancouver, BC | With Olympic mayhem and meals served in tents now a distant memory, those looking to revel in local fare and fresh flavours at exceptional value can take refuge at Westend favourite, L’Altro Buca. For the next few weeks, chef Andrey Durbach is highlighting the arrival of springtime ingredients with a new menu featuring twenty items under twenty-five dollars, family-style dining options, and prix fixe price breaks. Diners can choose from items such as salad of king crab served with wild prawns, avocado and tomato and basil dressing; grilled asparagus served with housemade pork cheek bacon and poached egg, finished with Parmigiano Reggiano; handmade fazzoletti pasta with osso buco ragu and gremolata; roasted Rossdown Farms chicken served with olive oil mashed potato, lemon, rosemary, confit garlic and fresh baby artichokes. Read more

Celebrate The Arrival of 2010 With Down To Earth Decadence

News from Scout supporters Pied-a-Terre, La Buca, and L’Altro Buca

Vancouver, BC | On December 31st, L’Altro Buca, Pied-à-Terre and La Buca will be opening their doors for those looking to ring in the New Year with classic comfort food in one of three of Andrey Durbach’s award winning dining rooms. Read more

Wild Game And Mushroom Fest At The Two Bucas and Pied-A-Terre

News from Scout supporters Pied-à-Terre, La Buca and L’Altro Buca

Vancouver, BC – Join Pied-à-Terre, La Buca and L’Altro Buca in celebrating an adventurous selection of rare game, bold sauces and the finest fungi during this year’s Game and Wild Mushroom Festival, held October 15th to October 24th. Chef Andrey Durbach’s distinctive menus highlight the flavours of the autumn harvest and will offer diners a chance to experience the earthy tastes of locally foraged morels, chanterelles, matsutake, porcini and field mushrooms served alongside hearty cuts of unsung game and the rich reductions that Durbach is known for. For the first time, the Game and Wild Mushroom Festival will be featured on the menus at each of Durbach and Chris Stewart’s three restaurants. Read more

L’Altro Buca Opens In The Old Parkside Location

Last month Scout broke the news that restaurateurs Chris Stewart and Andrey Durbach (interview) would be closing Parkside in the West End and that a new La Buca would soon rise in its place. The revamp and rebrand is now nearly finished, and they will open tomorrow as L’Altro Buca. From the press release… Read more

Parkside Restaurant To Become Second La Buca

Parkside, one of my favourite restaurants in the city, is going to close at the beginning of March for a minor refit and then reopen as another La Buca at the end of the month. Read more

La Buca

4025 MacDonald Street, Vancouver BC | MAP
Phone: 604-730-6988
Web: www.labuca.ca
Email: dinner@labuca.ca (please note that La Buca only takes reservations by phone)

The Team

Owners Chris Stewart and Andrey Durbach
Executive Chef: Andrey Durbach
Floor Manager: James Reynolds

About La Buca

La Buca focuses on regional Italian cuisine with an emphasis on fresh ingredients and homemade flavours. The dishes at La Buca are inspired by traditional Italian cuisine, where simple and classic food takes centre stage.

Awards

Best Causal Italian, Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards 2008

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