Scout Magazine » Campagnolo

DINER: Campagnolo Crew To Open New “Fat Dragon”, A Chinese BBQ Joint On The DTES

Scout Magazine — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 20:52:59 +0000

by Andrew Morrison | Robert Belcham and Tom Doughty, the owner/sommelier duo behind the two Campagnolo restaurants, are opening a Chinese BBQ restaurant called Fat Dragon in the heart of the Downtown Eastside (566 Powell).

View Larger Map

Joining them as a first time owner is Ted Anderson, long the chef at Refuel and now at Campagnolo Roma out on East Hastings (always nice to see that happen). The concept is interesting – Chinese food with a Southern US “lick of smoke” – and I’m sure they’ll nail it (the menu reads fantastic, and we’ll get to that soon), but let’s be honest; the thing that will define The Fat Dragon won’t be its food, but rather its location, at least in its first couple of years.

If you thought Salt Tasting Room in Blood Alley was daring back in the day, or really any location remotely worthy of the word in recent years, dinner at Fat Dragon will be – for some – like going to the moon. It’s this section of the DTES around Oppenheimer Park that has been (and still is) considered a bridge too far by restaurateurs, even hungry first-timers with very few funds. There is a community here, and a strong one at that, but it has to face a daily gnarliness that no other neighbourhood in the city has to contend with. I think for most Vancouverites, the idea of dining out hereabouts is repellent, and yet the restaurant, due in under two months, will probably do very well indeed.

A year or two ago I posited in a magazine article that new restaurant development in these parts was on its way. I likened the advance to that of an invading force employing a pincer movement around the most seemingly prohibitive blocks of the DTES. The concentration of the attack was building up eastward pressure from Cambie through to Carrall in Gastown, where dozens of new establishments had opened since 2006. The left pincer was heading down Powell, Alexander, and Cordova (Big Lou’s, Nicli Antica, Cadeaux, etc), while the right pincer was pushing up Keefer through Chinatown to hit Main around Strathcona (The Union, The Keefer, Brixton, etc). The two hooking flanks, I wrote, had already connected on East Hastings at Au Petit Chavignol (2009) and The Waldorf Hotel (2010), effectively enveloping the whole of the DTES with a ring of new eateries (for the military historians out there, remember the Battles of Marathon, Cannae, and The Falaise Gap).

Thus surrounded, the main concentration, what the eminent strategist Von Clauswitz would call the “schwerpunkt”, has been getting ready to burst eastward on Hastings proper for the past year (witness the comings of Wildebeest, Save On Meats, Bitter, Acme Cafe, etc). All that remains to be conquered – to put it indelicately – are the blocks within the ring, at the center of which lies Fat Dragon, with its 12 SROs above.

Fat Dragon owners Robert Belcham, Tom Doughty, and Ted Anderson at Campagnolo Roma on East Hastings

But why assume it will do well? For starters, the folks behind Campagnolo are no slouches. They’ve opened four small businesses in the past five years, with all but one of them opening where (mostly) others were afraid to. 566 Powell may be where angels still fear to tread, but no matter if the West Side is too shit scared to make the trip at first, others will come (I live within the ring, and suspect many of my neighbours are drooling as they read this). Those restaurants that make up the pincers and the schwerpunkt have revealed that much to be true, as not a single one of them has flopped.

Secondly, it’s a solid food concept. I’ve seen the menu, and it has everything from smoked I-San style pork hot links with cucumber and coriander relish to marinated and smoked crispy tofu Bao buns with bean sprout kimchi and holy basil (I won’t reveal anything else just yet, save to say we’ll also see whole fish and pig’s head). Chef Adam Johnson (ex-Pourhouse, Campagnolo) will have a smoker in house, and I imagine he’ll take good advantage of all the markets that are just around the corner (and let’s not forget that the kitchen tag-team of Anderson/Belcham snared Robert the 2009 Chef of the Year title).

In the end, however, it’s all about supply and demand. There are shockingly few restaurants in Vancouver that hybridize Chinese cuisine, pairing it successfully with booze and leaning large on aesthetics, and I think demand for more is considerably high (just try and get a table at Bao Bei during the dinner rush).

Third, the design is going to be pretty awesome. Marc Bricault is on the case (think Vij’s, the recent West redux, Thierry, Campagnolo, Refuel), and he’s making it look like a 1920′s style opium den with a lot of reclaimed fir, grass cloth, and design motifs that gel with the food concept. The old space (previously “The Bakery”, where one could freely buy weed) is long and wide, and will seat some 50 people, with an additional 13 seats at a central bar that is some 18ft wide. The tables are butcher block-style and over-sized to accommodate many dishes (everything is served family style), while the adjoining chairs are wooden and not a little rickety, which again dovetails nicely with the theme. The building dates from just prior to the First World War, and so has solid, fantastic-looking brick bones. Its high, beautifully decrepit ceilings will be criss-crossed with string, from which bulbs will hang, market-style. The clincher? A neon sign – in the form of a fat dragon, natch – will brighten the gloomy frontage. Take a look at what I saw last night…

ALL ANTICIPATED RESTAURANTS

GOODS: Main Street’s “Campagnolo” Is Now Taking Bookings For Valentine’s Day Feast

Scout Magazine — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:52:14 +0000

The GOODS from Campagnolo

Vancouver, BC | Chef Adam Vaughan and Bar Director Giovanni Giardino plan a menu designed with couples in mind, in celebration of “la festa di San Valentino” – the festival of Saint Valentine at Campagnolo. Guests are encouraged to show their affection over a sumptuous 4 course dinner, available on one day only, Tuesday February 14. Giovanni will loosen things up with a thoughtfully prepared aperitivo while Adam prepares a romantic Italian dinner for two. Get details and the menu after the jump…

Campagnolo’s first come first served policy remains intact but for one day only, Tuesday February 14, Campagnolo Restaurant is accepting reservations. Guests are invited to make their dinner reservations, for the Valentine Menu, in advance by calling 604 484 6018. A credit card number is required to book.

About Campagnolo

Campagnolo is open for lunch Monday – Friday from 11:30am – 2:30pm, brunch on Saturday & Sunday from 11:30am – 2:30pm, and dinner nightly from 5pm. Seating is available on a first come first serve basis, and reservations are available only for parties of eight or more. Campagnolo is located at 1020 Main Street, Vancouver BC. For more information please call 604.484.6018 or visit: www.campagnolorestaurant.ca

ON A MISSION: Looking For The City’s Best Gnocchi And Finding It In A French Bistro…

Scout Magazine — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 07:27:56 +0000

by Claire Lassam | I wish I could start this off by telling a sweet story about my Italian grandmother teaching me how to make potato pasta, or even of my non-Italian mother who embraced my father’s heritage with gusto by showing me how to push the yukon golds through a ricer and carefully fold in just the right amount of flour, but this is not the case. I do vaguely remember my Nona’s gnocchi, but in a far off, nostalgic way that makes me wonder if I’m not just exaggerating them with a trick of memory. Mostly, I remember reading and re-reading Thomas Kellers recipe, and all the worrying and fussing and time it took the first time I made his gnocchi. I could never forget the overwhelming relief that came when I took that first bite. It was not just relief, but also happiness, the slightly awestruck feeling that I had done it right (I think I was only 15, so there were more misses than hits at this point).

Anyway, it was in that instant that I first fell in love with proper gnocchi; little nuggets of potato that were soft and fluffy with just enough bite that they held together for a magic instant before melting away entirely. They required time, energy and a little finesse, but they were worth it. When bound – typically – in a little tomato sauce, they make the perfect comfort food.

The trouble, for me at least, is always the time and the lack of space. I find myself eating them out more often than making them in, and so my mission this week was to find Vancouver’s best gnocchi dish. I needed the soft, ethereal little dumplings to be served in a sauce with character; a real exemplar that would inspire me to return again and again. It wasn’t easy.

Most classic Italian restaurants get the texture right, so I began with Il Giardino and Cioppino’s. Both produced lovely versions (I have it on good authority that it’s the same recipe at both), but Cioppino’s won hands down in the tomato sauce department, what with their delicious addition of mozzarella di buffalo. Still, at $25 a bowl, I felt a little gouged, even with the wonderful cheese.

I went to Campagnolo for a different experience, and found a tantalizing, Roman-style gnocchi made with semolina flour (not potato). Sadly, the texture was disappointing (the dough was over-salted) and the sauce lacked punch. Boneta’s was a big improvement, and thus far my favourite. They were tiny and covered in a wild mushroom cream sauce with a wonderful lemon juice zing. It was so good, in fact, that I went twice. The gnocchi themselves could have been a little softer (they had a slightly gummy texture, probably from working the dough just the smallest amount too much), and on both occasions the sauce was split (the bottoms of the finished bowls were all oil with bits of white sauce trapped within). Imperfect, but still very good.

The best was found by accident. I didn’t expect to find any gnocchi on the menu at Tableau, the French bistro at the foot of Coal Harbour’s Loden Hotel, but when some friends and I popped in for a drink and I saw them on offer, I had to give them a try (I was feeling lucky, and lucky I was). These were flawless, placed as they were atop a pool of pesto cream sauce and dotted with wild mushrooms (not getting soggy underneath). Every time the dish would begin to seem too rich, I’d get a bite of a roasted tomato – still sharply acidic – and it would make me start craving the cream again. They were pan-fried to finish, and despite the resultant, crisped exteriors, they were still meltingly tender. They were thus endowed with more flavour, allowing them be the star of their own show. And in this girl’s opinion, that’s exactly what they should be.

————————————————————————————————–

Claire Lassam is a baker, blogger, and freelance writer based in East Van. She has been cooking and baking her way through the city for nearly five years, working in restaurants ranging from Cioppino’s to Meat & Bread. She currently toils at Beta 5 Chocolates and runs the baking blog Just Something Pretty.

————————————————————————————————–

DINER: “The Dry Age” Goes Behind The Scenes At Refuel & The Two Campagnolos

Scout Magazine — Wed, 07 Dec 2011 19:03:55 +0000

You may have noticed that blogs operated by restaurants tend to lean toward the irredeemably shitty because they’re either a) written by general managers or owners who can’t help but be shamelessly self-promotional, or b) they’re updated only once per epoch. The Dry Age, in contrast, is a breath of fresh air. The new tumblr is a joint effort from the kitchens of Campagnolo, Campagnolo Roma, and Refuel. It’s enjoyably frank (written in cheffish, staccato vernacular), honest, and unconcerned about the delicate sensibilities of customers who might be freaked out by an occasional swear word or a photo of a brain on a cutting board. From stories about collapsed drains at 4am to the deserved glorifying of some of local producers and their ingredients, it just doesn’t feel like a “company” website. Bonus: it’s updated often, which is to say it’s a solid bookmark. Check it out.

DINER: Where To Stuff Your Face And Drink Your Fill During The Eastside Culture Crawl

Scout Magazine — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 23:27:17 +0000

by The Editors | As most Scout readers are likely already aware, the Eastside Culture Crawl (November 18, 19, 20) is a free, three day art crawl that covers the area bounded by Main Street and Victoria Drive north of First Avenue. Over 300 artists are participating, and it’s going to be freakin’ awesome. But where to eat and drink before, during and after your Crawl? Being the thoughtful folks that we are, we’ve lined up a list of key stops within (and just without) Crawl grounds:

Au Petit Chavignol

A good glass of wine and a magical fondue is a pretty sweet way to finish a frenetic evening tour of the Parker Street studios. Brunch is also served on Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 3pm, and it comes highly recommended. We’re also convinced that Au Petit Chavignol serves up Vancouver’s best cheeseburgers, not to mention partial to their killer beer selections.
Au Petit Chavignol | 843 East Hastings | www.aupetitchavignol.com

Pat’s Pub

The hearty beef dip, wonderfully disgusting poutine and cheap “Pat’s Classic Lager” at this sometimes rowdy pub inside the Patricia Hotel are all legend to those who live in the area. If there’s a game on, know that this where every die hard Canuck/Crawl fan will retreat to for a period or two. Pro tip: there’s also a bank machine to replenish your Crawl fund.
403 East Hastings St. @ Dunlevy Ave | 604-255-4301 | PatsPub.ca

Strathcona Ukrainian Hall

The Strathcona Ukrainian Hall Perogy Lunch is a Crawl tradition. Cheap and authentic perogies, sliced sausage and borscht really hits the spot after a lot pavement pounding. Don’t be put off by the line-up at the door. It moves fast and you might make friends, as perogy eaters are generally a jolly bunch. Bonus: on Saturday, there’s a bazaar in the hall, so lots of good stuff from someone else’s basement!
Saturday, November 18 + Sunday, November 19 | 11-4 | 805 E. Pender | Strathcona Ukrainian Hall

Benny’s Market

Our neighbourhood grocery is awesome. Grab a sandwich and a drink here as you wander the streets of Strathcona looking for crows and yellow balloons (the two tell-tale signs of a Crawl studio). They have a take-out counter at the back of the shop with some quality snacks. We recommend the pastrami and the hot spot sandwiches, and if they have their potato and bacon soup going, pounce on that hot acton! If nothing else, Janet and Ramon will point you in the right direction.
598 Union Street @ Princess | 10-6pm | bennyfoods.com

Bao Bei

Lying just outside the Crawl boundary is this lovely, supremely cozy award-winner that speaks modern Shanghainese with a distinct Vancouver accent. The daily fried rice and a proper cocktail is always the way to go. Bar service is the quickest, so pull up a stool.
163 Keefer | 604-688-0876 | www.bao-bei.ca

The Ovaltine Cafe

We’ve always been somewhat terrified of the chow here (opting for grilled cheese, etc), but it definitely has its charms. In any case, there’s no denying that the coffee is hot, it’s dirt cheap and it’s on the northern flank of Crawl territory. If you’ve never been to The Ovaltine before, it’s an iconic anchor of the DTES and a sweet place to while away an hour in anonymity.
251 East Hastings | 604-685-7021

Union Street Market

Smack dab in the middle of the Adanac bike route and ground zero in the most densely populated area on the Crawl map is The Union Market. Slip in for some traditional Portuguese chicken (Gloria always makes extra chicken on the Crawl weekend) or a not so traditional (but totally addictive) curry pocket. Also home to the famous orange fritter above.
810 Union (Between Campbell & Hawks)

Little Nest

Little Nest on Charles (off Commercial) has some of the best quick and honest food on The Drive. It’s busy on account of that, but we nevertheless recommend dropping in to fuel up before setting out to tour all the nearby galleries and studios. They’re happy to do take-out if you just can’t wait to get going (or if you’re afraid of children).
1716 Charles | 604-251-9994 | LittleNest.ca

The Astoria

Great location, off-sales and cheap draft beer make this ancient character hang an essential before, during or after your Crawl.
769 East Hastings St | 604-254-3355

Pizzeria Farina

Holy shit do these guys ever do sublime pizza crust! Hands down one of the best and fastest pizzerias in town. It’s no wonder that they run out of dough every night. Located right on the Crawl’s periphery. A must!
915 Main | 604-681-9334 | www.pizzeriafarina.com

The Wilder Snail

Community hub and a grocery store, The Wilder Snail is a great place to grab a morning tea and muffin or an afternoon latte and flourless chocolate cake between studio visits. Artists studios are beside, across from, adjacent to and on top of the Snail, so you’re making good use of time by scoring your restoratives here. The Snail serves soup, grilled paninis and a selection of fresh baked goods. Boyd and his staff are as warm and welcoming as they come.
Saturday & Sunday 9am-6pm | 799 Keefer | http://www.thewildersnail.com/wordpress/

Campagnolo

We’re suckers for the salsiccia pizza and spaghetti pomodoro at this Main St. looker, not to mention manager Giovanni’s cocktails and the crispy ceci (pictured above).
1020 Main | 604-484-6018 | www.campagnolorestaurant.ca

Dunlevy Snack Bar

Great for coffee any time of the day and especially super duper when the cookies are coming out of the oven. Also a good place to drop in for lunch, as Theo always has a few simple and satisfying dishes on offer. Sunday Brunch is best. Hook up on their Facebook page to find out what they’ll be serving. Pro tip: wireless!
433 Dunlevy off East Hastings | http://dunlevysnackbar.tumblr.com/

The Waldorf Hotel

Hit The Waldorf pretty much any time for a drink, small plates or Nuba fare. Think mid-Crawl Najeeb’s cauliflower special, post-Crawl cocktails, off-sales for a freezing cold party in the Park – whatever strikes your fancy. This is the ultimate pit-stop. Fuck it. This is the ultimate sleepover.
1489 East Hastings | 604-253-7141 | www.waldorfhotel.com

Electric Owl

Located at the foot of the restored American Hotel on Strathcona’s fringe, check in here for the eclectic Japanese izakaya snacks and to take advantage of their cold beer and wine store.
926 Main | 604-558-0928 | ElectricOwl.ca

The Keefer

Just down the street from Bao Bei is this swishy, good looking hideaway with its open flame-lit patio (even in winter). Bar manager Dani Tatarin (lovely and talented) makes kickass drinks and the wee kitchen’s snacks are always inventive. Worth a visit for sure.
135 Keefer | 604-688-1961 | www.thekeeferbar.com

Fujiya

Fujiya is great for take-out sushi. Nothin’ fancy, just fast, healthy and cheap. Sometimes, that’s all you need. You can even order your sushi online and pick it up.
912 Clark | 10am – 7pm | http://www.fujiya.ca

Two Chefs & A Table

Last but not least, Two Chefs! Allan and Karl do a mean brunch and a wicked tight dinner service. Down in Railtown, they are the prefect starting point for browse some of the artists studios at 339 Railway. Check it out!
305 Alexander | 778-233-1303 | www.twochefsandatable.com

——————————-

NB. There are two JJ Bean Coffee shops in Crawl bounds: One at 1904 Powell and another at 460 Railway. Knowing there is a good cup of coffee nearby is invaluable.