A Tale Of Two Bonetas: News Of The Old & A Look Inside The New

by Andrew Morrison | I’m no sad sack but the truth of it is that this summer has sucked for me personally. It began with my hockey team losing (and my city subsequently being attacked by hordes of degenerate assholes), my leg getting broken in an office accident and then, most recently, my father – who I loved very much – went ahead and died without me knowing that he was the least bit ill. There have been some silver linings, but on the whole it has been what the Queen once succinctly called an “annus horribilis” (which I can assure you has nothing to do with Freddie Mercury or butt sex).

Beyond friends and family, I’ve only been able to count on a few things in the last couple of weeks (even the Westfalia’s brakes failed while going down a mountain the other day). One of them has been Gastown’s Boneta, which – since the day it opened in 2007 – I’ve counted as my “local”. As I assume most of our readers are well aware, it closed this past weekend and will re-open in its new location around the corner in the Water Street Garage in a little over a week or so (crossed fingers).

If we lived in an age bereft of cell phones, Boneta would likely be my wife’s first phone call were I to ever go AWOL (granted, were she to ever disappear, I’d call their first as well). Though I often take meetings in one of its corners, I’ve done my best to maintain it as a work-free environment. It’s where I go out first when I don’t have to review restaurants and the point from which I jump off when I do. To my shame I almost never order anything to eat (save for their outstanding poutine). It’s not that I don’t like the food, it’s just that I’ve always preferred to bend elbows there instead. Beer has always just sort of tasted better at its wood than anywhere else.

After receiving the news about my Dad and coming home from the Okanagan to get sauced with my brother last week, Boneta was the one place I could trust to sequester us somewhere quiet and then leave us alone (though recharging our glasses when needed). We flirted with the limits of Serving It Right by way of whiskey and lager, and it may have gotten messy. The last time I cried in a restaurant I was a busboy some 20 years ago, busily slicing open my finger instead of a loaf of bread. I would have been horrified to find myself blubbering at any other table, but at one of Boneta’s it seemed OK.

Luongo, my office equipment and my Dad might let me down, but the original Boneta never did. I’ve loved it dearly through its nearly messy divorce, its chef change and the recent, tragic passing of one of its staff members whose company and character I and many, many others thoroughly enjoyed. It was a place of tremendous comfort, playing host to some of my highest highs and lowest lows, seeing me laugh Sapporo out of my nose on one night and then blow involuntary snot bubbles of profound sadness the next.

Why the gravitational, near emotional attachment? I don’t know, really. Perhaps it’s because a part of me thinks it stands for something. When it opened at 1 West Cordova in 2007, it was the fourth restaurant at that address in as many years. It was a different landscape back then. Gastown was nowhere near as popular as it is today. If it weren’t for Boneta, I doubt very much that Emad Yacoub would be angling to expand his Glowbal empire nearby or that his nephew, Yaletown impresario Peter Girges (he of the terrifying “100 Days” in the Opus Hotel), would have just secured the lease next door in the old Pig & Whistle space. Boneta, to me at least, was always the little restaurant that could, not only begetting such gems as  The Diamond, Sea Monstr Sushi, and the restoration of Save On Meats, but also showing other first time restaurateurs that pretty much anything is possible if you kept your shit tight and your customers happy.

What could take its place? I’ve wondered that for quite a while. With the likes of Yacoub and Girges now testing the waters in these parts, it would be natural to fear that their assured successes would herald next the arrival of something truly hideous, a den of honest to goodness douchery selling sparkling as Champagne and American chuck as Kobe beef to corporate roid freaks high on expense accounts and speed-spiked Red Bull. I hope to hell not, but no matter. As a chef once told me when comparing the $8 million price tag of David Aisenstat’s Shore Club to the less than $100,000 spent to launch Boneta, “For eight million, I would have preferred 80 Bonetas.” True that. I suppose, among other things, I enjoyed the original because it had a surplus of soul and character, two things that take no notice of how deep anyone’s pockets are and can’t be sold or bought. Both – phew – can be transferred, as amply evidenced by the successful move of The Irish Heather across Carrall St. a few years ago.

I was back up in the Okanagan staying in Naramata with my friends Michael and Heidi this past weekend when the restaurant held its last service. I knew full well that I was going to miss it. Michael was going down for it so I give him a lift to Penticton’s little airport. After parking the car, he surprised me with a plane ticket. “It’s yours if you want to join me,” he said. I couldn’t do it and said so in what must have been the most pathetic mumble I’ve ever conjured, and being a good friend he totally understood (pretty much the most generous guy ever). It took me all of five minutes for me to regret turning down his kind offer. I later heard that it was a fantastic time.

But enough sturm und drang, I have some good news and then some gooder news.

Yesterday, Mark Brand informed me that he had just signed a two year extension of the lease at 1 West Cordova, meaning that instead of being turned into an Earl’s vodka bar offering breast implants for appetisers, it will become a private function space for all of Brand’s restaurants, including the new Boneta. That’s the good news. The gooder news is that I was just given a tour of the new space and it looks pretty fucking awesome. Before we get to the photos, here’s a refresher course on the move from back when Scout broke the news some thirteen months ago:

…next year, Boneta will close and reopen in a new location just a lob wedge away in a new Gastown development known as The Garage. You know that mysterious courtyard spot (prone to a dozen rumours since it was completed last year) behind L’Abattoir and the original Shebeen, the one that’s all glassed in and brand spanking new? That’s it: 2,222 sqft of prime virgin space with entrances through Gaoler’s Mews, Water St., and Blood Alley.

I checked it out as a temporary “pop-up” gallery in the Spring and hoped against hope that it would be turned into a restaurant once it was finished. It’s one of those unique, totally killer spots that is set back from the street, away from the drifting weekend yahoos and Old Spaghetti Factory tourists. If anyone could make it work, it’s these guys (kudos to Robert Fung of The Salient Group for getting that).

What does it give Boneta that it didn’t have before? An 800 sqft solarium equipped with five sliding doors; floor to ceiling glass and a roof that’s over 30% glass; a U-shaped bar with 12 seats; a year round heated and covered courtyard patio for 12 (think Brix); and brand new everything from electric to A/C.

They’re downsizing the seating capacity a little, from 100+ to 65-75, but I’ll be the last to complain about that as I think intimate is better for the concept than spread out. The artwork – something Boneta is known for – will be making the move, too, as will much of the original room’s motifs (they’re hoping to recycle/reclaim plenty).

From what I understand and saw with my own eyes, not much has changed as far as the vision or layout is concerned. Take a look at both the old and new below, and join me in the short but interminably long wait for the first drinks poured…

ALL ANTICIPATED OPENINGS

Rest In Peace, Jess Nichol

Vancouver is mourning the loss of one of its top bartenders, Jess Nichol of Boneta. Plans are in the works for a celebration of his life to be held at the restaurant within the next week, the details of which will be posted here as soon as they are finalised. Our hearts go out to his family and all his friends.

UPDATE: Boneta will be having a wake in his honour on Monday, August 1st starting at 6pm. A memorial page has been set up on Facebook here.

GOODS: Walk Away With Boneta’s New Big Screen TV Following Canucks’ Playoff Run

Boneta Restaurant is located in the heart of Gastown at 1 West Cordova St. | 604-684-1844 | www.boneta.ca

The GOODS from Boneta

Vancouver, BC | The playoffs are upon us and after lengthy debates about Canuck pride we have cracked to pressure. During the rest of our Stanley Cup run we’ll be showing the games in our lounge in glorious HD, but there’s a catch. We really dislike TV’s in restaurants, especially ours, so the night after we parade the cup through the city, the TV will be yours. One of yours that is, that’s right we can’t wait to take this 50 inch plasma, 1080 p, ultra thin down from atop our bar and give it away. Read more

Inside The Highly Anticipated Restoration Of “Save On Meats”

After much cajoling over many months, Mark Brand finally gave me a tour of the much anticipated Save On Meats renovation/restoration yesterday. It was well worth the wait.

Way back in May of last year, Scout broke the news that the space – for over 50 years the pride and joy of proprietor Al DesLauriers – had been picked up by restaurateur Mark Brand (see also Boneta, The Diamond, Sea Monstr Sushi, Catalog Gallery and Sharks + Hammers). Not only did Mark get the digs – lock, stock and sausage maker – he was able to sign a 20 year lease on the whole building. That’s a basement and four floors, not to mention a pretty cool roof (which we’ll get to later).

When Brand took possession that July, word came that the name would not be changed and that the landmark neon sign depicting happy pigs and dollar signs in hot pink/red would be remaining as well. Beyond that, very little has been leaked about the project except a bit of rumour here and conjecture there. The veracity of all I could gather from snippets, hints and dozens of conversations with him and others over the intervening months was proven on the tour. Yes, there will be fish in addition to meat. Yes, there is a vintage jukebox. Yes, there is a foosball table (in the commissary). Yes, pretty much everything is being custom made, and so on. And yes, it’s all pretty damn stunning. Read more

GOODS: Join The Ladies Of “House Wine” At Boneta For Argentine Tour Plans

House Wine is a wine consultancy company from trade vets Michaela Morris & Michelle Bouffard | www.housewine.ca

The GOODS from House Wine

Vancouver, BC | Join house wine’s Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris as well as Indus Travels’ Raju Banerjee on Saturday, March 5th from 2-3pm at Boneta Restaurant (1 West Cordova) for an info session about our upcoming wine tour to Argentina. Michelle and Michaela will share their experiences and give you the scoop about the places you will visit (and why you can expect some very special treatment). The afternoon will be full of stories, pictures and laughter. The session is free but space is limited. Please RSVP by Monday, February 28th to info@housewine.ca. Check after the jump for further details… Read more

A Night Of Classic Napa Valley Wine At Gastown’s “Boneta”

Boneta Restaurant is located in the heart of Gastown at 1 West Cordova St. | 604-684-1844 | www.boneta.ca

News from Scout supporter Boneta

Vancouver, BC | On Tuesday October 5th celebrate over 4 decades of estate wine making with Napa Valley’s famed Trefethen Vineyard and Boneta Restaurant. As one of Napa Valley’s few remaining family wine estates, Trefethen Vineyards has never purchased a single outside grape. Located in the Oak Knoll District, the estate vineyard is nestled in a verdant landscape of vines at the cooler, southern end of Napa Valley.

Diners will have the opportunity to sample some of the winery’s special library selections, including their signature wine, HaLo, and a gorgeous Chardonnay celebrating their 35th anniversary vintage of this wine. To highlight these exceptional wines Chef Jeremie Bastien has created a four-course menu of hearty fall dishes including Wild Mushroom Arancini and Parsley Root Ravioli with Brown Butter and Fried Capers.

Expert sommelier and Napa enthusiast Neil Ingram will also be on hand to walk guests through this wonderful glimpse of classic Southern California wine making at it’s finest. Read more

“Boneta” Playing Host To Dinner Paired With Similkameen Wines…

Boneta Restaurant is located in the heart of Gastown at 1 West Cordova St. | 604-684-1844 | www.boneta.ca

News from Scout supporter Boneta

Vancouver, BC | From sun-drenched orchards to lazy rivers, the Similkammen Valley in BC’s beautiful southern interior is known as the organic farming capital of Canada. Now enjoy the height of the harvest at Boneta Restaurant for the Similkameen Wineries Association’s special Wine Maker’s Dinner on Tuesday, August 24th beginning at 6:30 PM. Details after the jump… Read more

Andre McGillivray Done At The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe…

The following release from CSBDL will be making the media rounds shortly…

The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe would like to announce the amicable departure of André Mcgillivray from the day-to-day operations and directorship of the company. We will forever be in his debt and would like to take this opportunity to wish him all the best as he focuses on the joys of family, fatherhood and a new direction. Steve Da Cruz, chef Jason Liezert and everyone on the team at The Corner Suite look forward to serving you soon.

Farewell, André. Good luck to you and Steve both.

The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe Joins The Scout Community…

The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe is now a proud member supporter of Scout. We will be publishing their news and press releases on our front page and hosting a page for them in our list of recommended places to check out. We’d like to take this opportunity to thank them for their support of our little website. Click ahead to read on or jump directly to their Scout page. Read more

“Boneta” Moving Into Cool New Gastown Digs This February…

As announced last night at Boneta’s birthday party, the popular Gastown eatery’s time at 1 West Cordova is coming to a close. That might have caused some furrowed brows and maybe even a tear, but fret not, as owners Jeremie, Mark and Neil aren’t finished just yet. As a wise old man once said, now this is not the end. It is not even the beginning of the end. But it is, perhaps, the end of the beginning…

Here’s the exclusive skinny.

In February of next year, Boneta will close and reopen in a new location just a lob wedge away in a new Gastown development known as The Garage. You know that mysterious courtyard spot (prone to a dozen rumours since completed last year) behind L’Abattoir and the original Shebeen, the one that’s all glassed in and brand spanking new? That’s it: 2,222 sqft of prime virgin space with entrances through Gaoler’s Mews, Water St., and Blood Alley.

I checked it out as a temporary “pop-up” gallery in the Spring and hoped against hope that it would be turned into a restaurant once it was finished. It’s one of those unique, totally killer spots that is set back from the street, away from the drifting weekend Red Bull yahoos and Old Spaghetti Factory tourists. If anyone could make it work, it’s these guys (kudos to Robert Fung of The Salient Group for getting that).

What does it give Boneta that it didn’t have before? An 800 sqft solarium equipped with five sliding doors; floor to ceiling glass and a roof that’s over 30% glass; a U-shaped bar with 12 seats; a year round heated and covered courtyard patio  for 12 (think Brix); and brand new everything from electric to A/C.

They’re downsizing the seating capacity a little, from 100+ to 65-75, but I’ll be the last to complain about that as I think intimate is better for the concept than spread out. The artwork – something Boneta is known for – will be making the move, too, as will much of the original room’s motifs (they’re hoping to recycle/reclaim plenty).

As regular readers and diners might remember, they were only supposed to be in the Cordova location for one year, but one year turned to two, and now three is enough. They had a countdown clock on their website when they first opened back in 2007 (now long gone), and they hope to get it back up soon to let diner’s know how much time they have left to enjoy the original, which will be sorely missed.

For my part, I’ve had a lot of good times and made many friends in that room. I’m sure that’s the case with many of you as well. Join us in digging it while it lasts… Read more

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