Savio Volpe Served up a Pasta With a Secret Weapon Lurking Underneath

I love the handmade fresh pasta at Savio Volpe. It is – for me – the very best thing about the restaurant and what keeps me coming back. So I know what it is that I’m getting before I walk in the door. Consequently, my expectations are elevated, so any dip in quality registers plain as day. It works both ways, too. If a dish is better than anticipated, you take equal – albeit happier – notice. I’m sure you do much the same at your favourite establishments. You can’t help it.

Anyway, I was in the other night, and their orecchiette with tomato and pork sausage ragu sounded predictable, almost pedestrian when described to me by the server (it was a special). When it arrived, however, there was a dimension to it that I hadn’t caught in the description. Between the hot plate and the little ears of sauce-laden pasta was a super soft and creamy bed of EVOO-whipped, beautifully seasoned ricotta. I’ve enjoyed ricotta as a garnish on similar pastas, but whipped up and spread as the foundation? Never. I’d never even heard of it before. It turned something rustic into another thing entirely — something decadent. And its deliciousness was amplified by the joy of it being something new.

Chef Mark Perrier was quick to explain to me that it was a technique he learned from Portland chef Joshua McFadden (Ava Gene’s, Tusk) when they were cooking together at Savio Volpe for the Visa Infinite dinner last October. It’s not rocket science or anything especially innovative, but it worked so well. “Yeah, it’s pretty good.” Perrier agreed, adding that he’d never seen it before either. Again, it was just a special, so chances are slim it will be available on the next night you dine at the Fraserhood restaurant. But if it is, order two.

$18 | 615 Kingsway | 604-428-0072 | www.saviovolpe.com

  • Osteria Savio Volpe Exterior 3
  • kb_stemarie_saviovolpe_eaststraightwide
  • Osteria Savio Volpe
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Kitchen
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Steak 1
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Meatballs 2
  • kb_stemarie_saviovolpe_facepicturedetail
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Interior 6
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Interior 5
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Roast Chicken 2
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Interior 4
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Roast Chicken 1
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Exterior 2
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Ravioli
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Interior 3
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Interior 2
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Interior 1
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Meatballs 3
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Exterior 1
  • kb_stemarie_saviovolpe_northstraightwide
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Negroni
  • kb_stemarie_saviovolpe_southstraightwide
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Kale Salad 1
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Bar 2
  • Osteria Savio Volpe Bar 1
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Magnacotta 2
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Steak 2
  • Osteria Savio Volpe - Feast
  • kb_stemarie_saviovolpe_wallsconcedetail

There are 2 comments

  1. The whipped ricotta under a pasta is a staple from Mark Ladner’s Del Posto days in NYC. Incredibly delicious!

  2. Maybe I can pull the farmer card and get the cool cats in the kitchen to make it for me, too.

    Here’s to hoping!

You Need To Try the Emerald City Cocktail at Gastown’s Pourhouse

This apple-garnished, mule-inspired looker combines classic autumnal flavours like ginger and cinnamon with nutty Fino sherry.

You Need to Try Four Winds’ Delicious Reprieve from the Torrential Deluge

Want to remember summer nights foraging wild blackberries? Have a few sips of this delicious, limited release brew.

Where to Sip the Inspired, ‘Nacho Medicine’ Cocktail on a Cold Vancouver Day

This delicious take on Sam Ross' famous "Penicillin" cocktail is a worthy smoke show. Best enjoyed with rain.

You Need to Try “The Broken Compass” in Chinatown

The seasonal cocktail at The Keefer Bar is tiki-inspired without being sweet and summery. Think blended Scotch, coconut and Amaro.