by Marshall To | One of Vancouver’s most under-sung restaurants is Cafe Salade de Fruits. The small and quaintly/eclectically decorated space spills out into the foyer of the Centre Culturel Francophone de Vancouver on West 7th Ave. Though charming, simple and popular to the point of often being full, the eatery nevertheless exists somewhat off the radar. If you’ve never been before, Fall/Winter is the ideal time to go, as they do “hearty” better than most.

On a recent lunch visit, my friend Alexandra and I could smell the unquestionably French aroma of butter, garlic, cream, and white wine – the base of the restaurant’s most popular dish, the classic moules frites – as soon as we sat down. She ordered the smoked salmon salad, but I couldn’t resist the mussels. The came perfectly prepared; steaming hot and next to thin, crispy fries as well as several slices of baguette (both being ideal for absorbing the full flavours of the hot, creamy broth). The salmon was light and refreshingly dressed with salty capers and julienned red onion. A crispy popadom was included for added texture. While we were quite stuffed from the sizeable portions, we nevertheless thought it appropriate to finish with chocolate mousse, because nothing is more French than finishing off a cream-filled meal with a dessert full of cream!

The menu reads like a “greatest hits” list of bistro plates – eg. steak frites, duck rillette, escargot, etc. – and the value is great, especially at lunch, when a sophisticated fill-up rarely exceeds $20. Dinner is more expensive, but the menu is broader and the portions are considerable (you get what you pay for). The kitchen also serves a weekly table d’hote menu for $28, featuring specialities such as Beef Wellington. Their special three course Christmas menu is currently on offer. It begins with a lobster bisque, continues with either venison medallions or sablefish with truffle sauce, and ends with a rolled Buche de Noel that’s heavy on the Grand Marnier.

Cafe Salade de Fruits | 1555 West 7th Avenue | 604-714-5938 | www.saladedefruits.com
Tue to Fri: Lunch from 11am to 2:30pm, Dinner from 5pm | Sat: Brunch 10am to 2:15pm, Dinner from 5pm
Closed everyday between 2:15pm to 5:00pm | Closed Sun and Mon all day

AH, BUT HAVE YOU HEARD OF THESE?