Wait a sec – Beaujolais Blanc? We didn’t learn about this in weekend warrior wine class. As with so many wine regions, in between the official roster of appellation wines there are boundary pushing cracks where highlights like this shine through.
Jean-Paul Brun 2012 Terres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc | AC Beaujolais, France | $30 +648071
Jean-Paul Brun is the owner and vigneron at the Domaine des Terres Dorées, located in Southern Beaujolais, just north of Lyons, in a beautiful area known as the “Region of the Golden Stones.” Sustainably focused and non-interventionist in both the vineyard and winery, Brun is a firm advocate of minimal SO2, natural yeast, old vines and low yields with his wines, and has seen wide critical acclaim for his honest, expressive Beaujolais. One of the most revered and iconic producers of the region, Brun couldn’t be bothered by appellation rules; though he makes exceptional gamay and Cru Beaujolais wines, he also produces characterful and intriguing rosé, roussanne, viognier, late harvest and sparkling wine that falls outside of any regional regulations. In other words, he gives not one shit about what he is supposed to do, but devotes all his many years and talents to what he wants to do – expressing the best of his region.
Gamay accounts for 99% of the grapes grown in Beaujolais, so this Beaujolais Blanc (100% chardonnay) is a rare treat and a fantastic value. The warmer climate allows for a richer, fuller wine while the limestone soil adds a fresh, mineral-laden element.
The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks that are laid on their side to allow for more lees contact, amping the complexity further. The resulting wine (bottled without any oak) is brimming with apple, pear, citrus, creamy lees and bright, saline minerality. Fantastic depth and length, and ideal for these late summer nights when the evening chill blends with the sunset.