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Getting To The Bottom Of The Glass At ‘Farmer’s Apprentice’ And ‘Grapes & Soda’

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by Treve Ring | I thought it fitting to profile the one-two hot rooms with not one but two wine chaps. Both Paul McCloskey and Hao-Yang Wang collaborate on the wine lists at Farmer’s Apprentice and newly opened Grapes & Soda wine bar next door in South Granville. Together, and taking turns, the busy fellows steer a tight catamaran; two ever-changing, eclectic and adventuresome wine programs to keep up with the flavourful and thought provoking food by chefs David Gunawan and Ron Shaw. Artisanal, natural and biodynamic wines rule the pages, encouraging discussion and education for both staff and guests.

Hao-Yang Wang (HYW) cut his teeth in wine retail (Liberty Wine Merchants) while completing his WSET Diploma. He then opened the nervy and lauded Pidgin as assistant GM / sommelier before landing at Farmer’s Apprentice. Paul McCloskey (PMC) has worked some of the city’s best rooms over the past decade, including time well spent at C, West, and L’Abattoir, not to mention way back as the GM for Gastropod.

I asked them both about what they have LISTED.

How many wines on your list?

HYW | Between the two lists, about 55-60 labels.

How is your list organized?

HYW | Sparkling, red, white, rose and fortified.

What one wine on your list are you most excited about right now?

HYW | Clos du Tue-Boeuf “La Caillere” from Cheverny. Gorgeous Pinot Noir from Loire; juicy acidity, silky texture, crunchy red berries, layered with smokey game.

PMC | Frank Cornellisen “Contadino” ’10. Mostly Nerelo Mascalese and a grab bag of other grapes grown by a wild Belgian on the top of Mount Etna. This is an exceptionally idiosyncratic (nerdy) wine, vibrant and fresh, fruity and nutty, with quite a lot of structure. It’s also quite mercurial, undergoing significant change in the glass, and is even more rewarding after having been open for a few days. It’s like the food at Farmer’s: it honours the labour of the farmer and presents some new and interesting experiences on the palate.

What are the top-selling wines on your list?

HYW | Clos Roche Blanche Pineau D’Aunis Rose. It surprises guests every time with its astounding minerality and savoury quality.

PMC | Our list is in constant flux, but if I had to go by numbers then it would probably be Le Soula’s “Trigone” White from Côtes Catalanes. A difficult sell, but a wine that our service staff have really taken on. Macabeu, Vermentino and a few others, a blend of vintages from 2013 back to 2009. Fruity and simple immediately, this wine seems to grow, morphing into something quite rich and elegant.

What are the newest arrivals to your list?

HYW | Verdicchio di Matelica from Colle Stefano. Super-charged lemony bomb from Marche; delicious summer sipper.

PMC | I’m really stoked to be pouring Catherine and Pierre Breton’s “La Dilletante” Vouvray Brut by the glass. So textured and complex; full-on Chenin Blanc. A pretty weighty wine with tonnes of acid and mineral.

The one product you will never list?

HYW & PMC | Generic, factory-born, mass-produced anything…

Money/availability is no option. What one wine would you list?

HYW | Trockenbeerenauslese Rieslings from Germany. These nectars are so ridiculously delicious it makes me weep.

PMC | Probably some big name natural wine producers like Gravner or Radikon. To be honest I’m not really looking for wines like this. One of the initial goals of the wine list was to keep our wines as affordable as possible, and this ethos still guides the choices that we make. Maintaining a natural wine list already necessitates a higher price-point than most other restaurants, so I’d like to be able to offer some interesting examples at a price that allows for a little experimentation.

Your fave food/beverage pairing currently in your restaurant?

HYW | Citrus cured and smoked trout, poached rhubarb, wild strawberries, ikura and grapefruit paired with pétillant Gamay from Jean Maupertuis. Great textural contrast from the bubbles, and a little bit of sweetness from the Gamay to bring out the fresh strawberries and rhubarb.

PMC | Jean-Paul Brun’s FRV Gamay sparkling with just about any of David’s desserts. Pairing at Farmer’s Apprentice is like trying to hit a moving target. Dishes change all the time, sometimes mid-service. Desserts are like complex palate-cleansers, often with herbal sorbets and odd savoury elements. This fruity little wine has a decent amount of sweetness tempered with a distinct gaminess. With poached rhubarb and elderflower sorbet it sings.

Your insider top food/wine pairing tip?

HYW & PMC | Work: talk to the chef! When the chef can taste the wine with you and offer adjustments to the dish, it really helps to enclose the gaps in the pairing. Play: think regional. There are good reasons why a rich Alsatian onion tarts with a fat Alsace Pinot Gris works so harmoniously. Sometimes things are just meant for each other!

Favourite wine list in Vancouver, other than your own?

HYW | Nook. Love the simplicity, and always very complementary to their food. The odd by-the-glass that are on special are always a nice surprise.

PMC | I really like my wife Yani Kong’s list at the Alibi Room. It’s a small, thoughtful list with all estate-grown, farm-focused BC wines. That being said, I go there for the beer.

Neighbourhood: Kitsilano
1529 West 6th Ave.
604-620-2070

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