by Andrew Morrison | Mamie Taylor’s, located at 251 East Georgia in Chinatown, recently launched their version of a Southern-style brunch service. It runs every Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 3pm, and fair warning: it’s not for those who brunch lightly.

If chef Tobias Grignon and owners Simon Kaulback and Ron Oliver had an ideal customer breed in mind, it might be people who seldom give many fucks about anything save for their own personal satisfaction, which they take very seriously indeed. That is to say that there aren’t any regenerating smoothies or typical bowls of “good health” on offer here. Rather, this brunch menu can be interpreted as – depending on your point of view – either a minefield of artery-impregnating sons of bitches or a beautifully engraved invitation to sup from a deep fried, extra buttery smorgasbord of sweet and salty excess. There is a salad, to be sure, only it’s of the Cobb ilk, arriving loaded with stilton cheese and pork belly.

It all plays for par, for one doesn’t go to Mamie’s to cleanse; one attends for the Faustian exchange of days shaved off the lifespan for feverish moments immersed in chicken fried steak soaked in bacon gravy (pictured above) or engrossed in the half hour it takes to properly navigate the sticky pleasures of a Kentucky Hot Brown. (For those unschooled in regular pulmonary bullying, a Kentucky Hot Brown is French toast – or “Freedom Toast” as they call it at Mamie’s – mounted with smoked confit turkey, tomato and bacon, all smothered in a thick Mornay sauce.)

The menu also includes the restaurant’s decadent fontina cheeseburger (one of the best in the city), fried chicken and waffles with pickled chilies and bourbon honey, and two kinds of eggs benedict – one with pork belly and the other with poblano chilies and goat’s cheese — both of which can be found breathing heavily under hot domes of thick Hollandaise. Cocktails are equally indulgent, none more rewardingly so than the Tequila Caesar, which comes doubly capped by a devilled egg and a thick shard of hot chorizo. Why? Because you’re going to die, that’s why.

Let’s just be glad that it’s all only a weekend affair, for if this sort of immoderation was tabled 7 days a week, hell would be paid early and often. Take a closer look below if you dare…

Mamie Taylors | 251 East Georgia | 604.620.8818 | mamietaylors.ca

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