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VICTORY GARDENS: On Collard Greens & The Back-To-Back Battle Of The Brassicas

by Lisa Giroday, Sandra Lopuch and Sam Philips | Collard greens appear to be growing in every second yard in various East Van neighbourhoods, and they sell out at the farmers’ markets right before our very eyes. They are everywhere. Some of the healthiest-for-humans kinds of greens thrive in the colder months. Collards, like kale, have been kind of especially hot these past few years (see our last article on kale).

Not surprisingly, collards and kale are in the same genetic family, Brassica oleracea, which is a botanical species that you may hear us go on and on about this winter. It also includes cabbage and brussel sprouts, both of which are also very much in season now. Collards and kale both fall into the Acephala variety within Brassica oleracea – “Acephala” meaning “without a head” in Greek. Hence, kale and collards are headless cabbage, so to speak. There is no jealousy between these siblings; both Brassica oleracea var. acephala can share the spotlight, take turns nicely, and diversify your meals.

Collards, like kale, are biennials in milder climates, and as such they overwinter. You can pick the leaves all winter long. Remember to harvest leaves from the bottom up! Collard “trees” are super cool looking, too. It’s awesome to see them occupying all sorts of spaces. Keep an eye out; you’ll see their abundance.

Collards are celebrated worldwide for their culinary uses. Their thick leaves are chock-full of cabbage-y flavour with a unique and crave-ably subtle bitterness. And, of course, collards are a staple in the southern United States. Historically, collards were grown in slave gardens for their proliferation and health benefits. They are a staple of soul food today, symbolizing empowerment, culinary tradition, and comfort.

Make a mess o’ greens with your next breakfast by trying some sautéed collards with a farm fresh fried or poached egg on top (let the runny yolk get in there if you’re into that), black eyed peas, and delicious grits (comprised of non-transgenic maize). Smoked paprika in your collards will really amp it up to the next level. Mmmm.

Further Reading: What the Slaves Ate: Recollections of African American Foods and Foodways from the Slave Narratives, by Herbert C. Covey, Dwight Eisnach.

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Victory Gardens is a team of local urban farmers for hire. Lisa, Sandra and Sam help transform tired or underused residential and commercial green spaces into food producing gardens. Their goal is to challenge the way communities use space and to participate in the change needed to consume food more sustainably. For the rest of the growing season, they’ve hooked up with Scout to share some cool tips and tricks on how to get the best from of our own backyards.

There are 2 comments

  1. I’m from Georgia, and have eaten collards all my life. They’re one of the few foods I’ve missed since moving to Vancouver, so I’m happy to see them in stores and at farmer’s markets. However, they’re almost *criminally* overpriced in this area. $3 for six leaves, when I can get an entire pound of collards for that much in Georgia? Ridiculous.

  2. I second Cecily. I too am from Georgia (Savannah) and I have to laugh at the small baby bok choy sized bunches of collards I see being sold here. Let em grow. They will cook down. I am glad they are getting some appreciation. Now if I could just find some White Lily up here …