by Amorita Bastaja | “California Sprawl” is how Anthony Truchard, son of one of the largest grape growers in Napa, describes his family’s bush style Zinfandel vines, and I can’t think of a better name for either the mop top vines or my recent four day jaunt around Napa.  After arriving, a tour through the vineyards of Trefethen comes first with Jon Ruel, Director of Viticulture, guiding us around the property.

Trefethen is one of the first gravity-fed wineries to ever be built. It was designed by the same architect responsible for the Greystone (now home to the Culinary Institute of America) and Inglenook. The Trefethen family has never purchased grapes, remaining one of the true family-owned estate fruit wineries. As we wander around, Jon notices a small shoot coming off the main trunk of the vine.  He promptly takes his boot to it, breaking it off with a couple of quick stomps. Of course, the little green growth may seem innocuous, but it means fewer nutrients are being directed towards the grapes. It’s small, but the attention to detail isn’t missed and it’s certainly noticed in the style of wine. Intense and clean with bright minerality and pure fruit flavours, the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are true standouts.

After Trefethen, we’re off for lunch with Truchard and his parents, Tony and Jo Ann, who bought 20 acres of land in Carneros back in 1974 and now own about 400 acres. They sell fruit to about 20 premiere Napa wineries, making them pioneers in Napa Valley. With a glass of their whimsical single vineyard Rousanne in hand, Anthony brings us round the vineyards, through and among rows of old vine Zinfandel and Merlot. A quick stop to visit the pet goats and miniature donkey and then it’s back to the grind of tasting and touring. Their Cabernet is great value here in BC; Carneros appellated at a pretty good price ($27.99).

The next day, after a fun lunch at the fantastic roadside diner Gott’s (formerly “Taylor’s Refresher”), Mac Watson, owner of the brand Macauley vineyards, takes us to the holy grail of vineyard sites: To Kalon. Owned by Andy Beckstoffer, it’s a star in Napa Valley, providing fruit for cult wineries such as Herzog, Harlan and Plumpjack (to name only a few).

Mac sources his Cabernet Sauvignon from a small block of vines around row 100. He takes us into the middle of the vineyard where it’s serenely quiet, a slight breeze cooling us where we stand. I notice that the grape bunches look a little odd. There’s barely any fruit and they’re quite loose. I pop one in my mouth and the intensity and ripeness blows me away. While the rest of Napa seems to be a few weeks behind in development, the fruit here is sweet and plump.

I’d love to stay longer amongst the sun-dappled vines, but it’s time to head back to San Francisco to catch a flight home. It’s nice to know, however, that a slower pace is just a short plane ride away.

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Amorita Bastaja is a manager at Legacy Liquor Store, the largest liquor store in British Columbia (located in the Athlete’s Village), and the Wine Editor of Scout. Her love of imbibing steered her through courses from the International Sommelier Guild and the Wine & Spirits Education Trust, and has taken her to many wine regions, including Washington State, Napa and Sonoma, Piemonte, Veneto, Tuscany, Abruzzo, Provence and all over the Okanagan Valley.