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Training Days Inside Gastown’s Highly Anticipated “L’Abattoir”

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As regular readers might remember, I’m writing a feature for Vancouver Magazine on table service in the city and how it’s been evolving with our restaurant scene. To gain some insight, I’m putting the old apron back on (God help you all) and getting back to work. I’ll be at South Granville’s storied West Restaurant for a night later this summer, but right now I’m concentrating on the opening of L’Abattoir in Gastown (I’ve been invited to clock in at Deacon’s Corner, too, and I hope to be able to make that happen, too).

So far it’s been a lot of fun. We did cocktail and wine training yesterday and talked a little about service philosophy and the different protocols associated with each (table settings, approach, et cetera). It’s been fascinating to watch them try and create their own style to suit their vision for the restaurant. I’m really very psyched about the whole “embedded” experience, though not a little freaked that I might drop something. In a few hours we start the final menu tasting, followed by a proper dry run of friends and family. The opening to the public, if all goes well, should be a ‘go’ for Friday (knock on wood). Lots of photos of the room and our training sessions after the jump.

  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | The first day of demolition
  • Paul Grunberg and Lee Cooper in the original Irish Heather space (before it was L'Abattoir)
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | The mezzanine
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | The mezzanine
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | Looking down at the entrance from the mezzanine
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | The bar area
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | Paul inspects the ancient and sordid works of vandals
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | Looking upstairs from the entrance
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | The 22 seat solarium
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | From the back hall looking toward the bar area
  • Demo day at L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | owners Lee Cooper, Paul Grunberg, and Nin Rai
  • L'Abattoir Restaurant in Gastown | From the solarium looking back toward the entrance
  • Exterior
  • Lee and Paul, pre-shift
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  • David at L'Abattoir
  • L'Abattoir | Measuring 5 ounce pours...
  • L'Abattoir | Jake schools on the wine list
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  • Nadia, Kristopher and John during staff meal at L'Abattoir
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  • The staff at the bar, tasting and debating before opening night
  • L'Abattoir
  • Staff discussing the food...
  • L'Abattoir | Trying to decide on table settings
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  • Staff discussing the food...
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  • L'Abattoir | Paul and ice...nearly there
  • A fizzy berry dessert at L'Abattoir
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  • David and Shaun tend the first guest of the night...
  • A light moment in the rush...
  • Romano readies to run...
  • Steamed ling cod with celeriac croquettes
  • L'Abattoir
  • Chef Lee Cooper of L'Abattoir plating a halibut dish
  • On the pass...
  • A chanterelle mountain...
  • Halibut with garlic sabayon
  • On the pass during the first service at Gastown's L'Abattoir
  • Opening night at L'Abattoir
  • Dungeness crab custard in chickpea toast
  • The mushroom turnovers with pecorino fondue spiked with black truffle
  • Flank steak with sweetbreads and potato fondants
  • Confit of albacore tuna | Smoked pork fat, egg, crispy bits
  • Mmm, Hillary's chocolate yogurt...
  • Post-shift debrief.

PS. If I happen to be serving you, go easy. It’s been a while…

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