Scout Photos: Goodbye January We’re So Bummed To See You Go…

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Michael Eckford photobombs competing barman Geoff Robinson (who would ultimately win) at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail competition held at The Diamond on January 18th

It’s been a good and interesting month. It began with my friend Nathan, notorious dog gobbler and sous chef at Lumiere, inviting my wife and I to dine at the Relais Gourmand restaurant. Not since a lunch with the CCC folks at West a couple of months ago had I done a fine dining, multi-course affair with paired wines and petit fours or felt compelled to don a jacket while in a restaurant, so this was something of a special occasion. For certain, I’d been on a tear reviewing inexpensive restaurants for the newspaper, and felt like I’d paid enough dues in poutine, ramen, and burgers to warrant a little foray back into the world of refined excess. I don’t mean to say that I had deserved or earned it, but rather that I supped and drank heartily and naturally in good conscience.

This was my very first meal at Lumiere since it reopened in early December of 2008. I’d taken a peek at their opening party, dined a few times at DB Bistro next door, interviewed the new principal – international celebrity chef/restaurateur Daniel Boulud, and tasted a few doses from executive chef Dale Mackay at the amazing Senza Frontiere dinner and this past year’s Gold Medal Plates cooking competition, but I’d never actually sat in the room proper and had him and his crew unleash several courses upon me; service, wine, and all. I was pretty excited, as was Michelle. So excited, in fact, that neither of us ate any lunch in anticipation of the happy onslaught.

It’s a beautiful little restaurant, the kitchen still pristine and high tech. The dining room isn’t as gunmetal hard, sexy, and austere as Lumiere used to be when it was the playground of Iron Chef Rob Feenie, but I still love the new look. It feels more established, a lick more confident. The gently lit interior palette of butters and chocolates soothe, giving the atmosphere a softer and slightly more intimate feel. The chairs melt into the backside. The settings and service are immaculate. The music barely resonates.

It was packed, which is always nice to see no matter where you dine. The little four seat bar, however, was completely bereft of bums. It made me think of the old Lumiere Tasting Bar, which was one of my favourite spaces in the city (now the right flank of DB Bistro next door). I was a little sore knowing it wasn’t coming back, but that didn’t keep me from enjoying one of the best meals I’ve yet had this year.

Check for the photos of what we ate that night mixed in with the more interesting things we did, ate, and saw in the first month of the year…

Best Of January

A tour inside ancient and storied PenthouseBao Bei neon in ChinatownFirst off was an amuse bouche, an egg-centric trio (paired with Montaudaon Champagne) that saw diced egg with caviar and creme fraiche; scrambled egg with a loonie-sized shave of white truffle; and a quail's egg kicked with espelette and Hollandaise | LumEgg salt and pepperThe first course was a delightfully tart grapefruit cured piece of hamachi matching an '07 Riesling from Rippon in Central Otago. Dressing the fish was a little cucumber and radish, as well as a teaspoon of white sturgeon caviar | LumiereThe winner, Geoff Robinson of The DiamondDungeness Crab | pumpernickel, shiso, orange, celery root | LumiereMouseQuebec Foie Gras Parfait | black truffle, turnip, pistachio, brioche | LumiereGranville St. | Vancouver, BCBrioche smeared with foie gras | LumiereKeep those f@ckers out, goddamit!Six Mushroom Ravioli | brussels sprouts, salsify, beaufort, porcini sauce | LumiereInside the renovated Museum of AnthropologyCornmeal Crusted Qualicum Bay Scallops | apple truffle coleslaw, brisket, parsnip puree, scallop jus | LumiereInside the renovated Museum of AnthropologyPolderside Farm Duck | beets, black garlic, horseradish, duck jus (look at that skin!) | LumiereWest Vancouver Community CenterSlow Baked Arctic Char | leek flan, black trumpet mushrooms, beurre rouge | LumiereWe're big in JapanNicola Valley Venison Saddle | potato gallette, red cabbage, bitter chocolate sauce | LumiereWest Vancouver Community CenterDuo Of AAA Prime Beef | red wine braised short rib, potato fondant | seared rib eye, romaine parcel | LumiereInside the renovated Museum of AnthropologyCitrus Consomme | fromage blanc sorbet, lemon mousse, almond sablé, meyer lemon marmalade | LumiereInside the renovated Museum of AnthropologyHot & Cold Tiramisu Sundae with Chocolate Cremeux, Mascarpone Mousse, Ladyfingers, Coffee Ice Cream | LumiereMOAFini | LumiereMOAFresh madeleines | LumierePot pie | Salty TongueVancouver Art Gallery:  A Modest VeilThe Corner Suite Bistro De LuxeTomato & Hendricks Gin Soup with Evoo, parm crisp and creme fraiche | The Cactus ClubPBRButternut squash stuffed ravioli with sauteed prawns | The Cactus ClubSake-soy marinated Sablefish with fingerlings, asp, and shiitake in dashi brothExterior | The Corner Suite Bistro De LuxeDuck and Chicken Presse and Foie Gras Chicken Boudin | The Cactus ClubRestaurateur James Iranzad in mid-chew at Bao BeiA tiny portion of Rob's Hunter Chicken with four mushrooms, demi-glace, haricots vert, and herbed fingerlings | The Cactus ClubMOASlice of perfect Pernod peppercorn filet mignon with mash and veg | The Cactus ClubDelivery of dishes at the Art Institute's black box cooking competitionMy fellow judges grade plates at the Art Institute's black box cooking competitionA student's duck dish at the Art Institute's black box cooking competitionLupo Restaurant | 869 Hamilton StreetOwner/chef Julio Gonzalez-Perini of Lupo looks up from his pansRaviolo stuffed with spinach, ricotta, hazelnut and a free range egg at LupoMOAChicken Lupo at LupoMOAThe $9 spag pomo at Lupo (I'm in love)MOAAmuse at The DiamondJudging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondJudging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondJudging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondShaun Layton competes at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondJudging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondBobby Kay of Boneta competes at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondBobby Kay, shaking.Lauren Mote of The Refinery competes at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondMOA PerformersGeoff Robinson of The Diamond wins the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondJudging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondJudging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The DiamondBryant and Bobby KayDiners feast at Bao BeiEarly favourite: wontons in spicy black bean broth at Bao BeiBao BeiOwner Tannis Ling multitasks at Bao BeiCo-owner barman Steve Da Cruz | The Corner Suite Bistro De LuxeTomato soup with tarragon creme fraicheMOAKickass split pea and ham hock | The Corner Suite Bistro De LuxeMOAArctic char with olive oil pommes puree, caper beurre noisette | The Corner Suite Bistro De LuxeMOAGranville StreetMOA totemThe Corner Suite Bistro De LuxeCharlie's Restaurant and BarTouring the ancient penthouseInterior booths at Charlie's Restaurant and BarThe Cork & FinWhat a find! Too bad it doesn't work, though it makes for a sweet DJ booth, no?Ryan and Roger on the lower level at CalabashAncient purple glass sidewalk skylights at CalabashEast Van sign by Ken LumTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseDonuts | The Corner Suite Bistro De LuxeTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient penthouseTouring the ancient Penthouse strip clubTouring the ancient penthouseJudas Goat (we're bummed it's delayed until March)Judas Goat (we're bummed it's delayed until March)Tannis pours a refreshment during a break in construction | Bao Bei | Scout MagazineJustin Ault, owner of Hapa Izakaya | Scout MagazineRosy and Victoria doing menu inserts at the Yaletown location of Hapa Izakaya, just days before openingMOA

Comments

2 Responses to “Scout Photos: Goodbye January We’re So Bummed To See You Go…”

  1. jeannie on February 8th, 2010 11:19 pm

    Andrew:
    I heard you interviewed on CBC – on the Coast last week and you listed some great picks for restaurants in Vancouver. I checked with CBC and they don’t have a transcript. Would you post the list for me and others to learn from. thanks, Jeannie

  2. Scout Magazine on February 8th, 2010 11:59 pm

    Hi Jeannie, thanks for listening (and now, reading). I can’t recall all of the restaurants that I recommended, but I do remember saying that Chambar was my “go to” place, ditto Boneta in Gastown. I’ve also been enjoying Bao Bei in Chinatown quite a bit.