Scout Photos: Goodbye January We’re So Bummed To See You Go…

February 2, 2010 by Scout Magazine  
Filed under Andrew Morrison, Culture

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Michael Eckford photobombs competing barman Geoff Robinson (who would ultimately win) at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail competition held at The Diamond on January 18th

It’s been a good and interesting month. It began with my friend Nathan, notorious dog gobbler and sous chef at Lumiere, inviting my wife and I to dine at the Relais Gourmand restaurant. Not since a lunch with the CCC folks at West a couple of months ago had I done a fine dining, multi-course affair with paired wines and petit fours or felt compelled to don a jacket while in a restaurant, so this was something of a special occasion. For certain, I’d been on a tear reviewing inexpensive restaurants for the newspaper, and felt like I’d paid enough dues in poutine, ramen, and burgers to warrant a little foray back into the world of refined excess. I don’t mean to say that I had deserved or earned it, but rather that I supped and drank heartily and naturally in good conscience.

This was my very first meal at Lumiere since it reopened in early December of 2008. I’d taken a peek at their opening party, dined a few times at DB Bistro next door, interviewed the new principal – international celebrity chef/restaurateur Daniel Boulud, and tasted a few doses from executive chef Dale Mackay at the amazing Senza Frontiere dinner and this past year’s Gold Medal Plates cooking competition, but I’d never actually sat in the room proper and had him and his crew unleash several courses upon me; service, wine, and all. I was pretty excited, as was Michelle. So excited, in fact, that neither of us ate any lunch in anticipation of the happy onslaught.

It’s a beautiful little restaurant, the kitchen still pristine and high tech. The dining room isn’t as gunmetal hard, sexy, and austere as Lumiere used to be when it was the playground of Iron Chef Rob Feenie, but I still love the new look. It feels more established, a lick more confident. The gently lit interior palette of butters and chocolates soothe, giving the atmosphere a softer and slightly more intimate feel. The chairs melt into the backside. The settings and service are immaculate. The music barely resonates.

It was packed, which is always nice to see no matter where you dine. The little four seat bar, however, was completely bereft of bums. It made me think of the old Lumiere Tasting Bar, which was one of my favourite spaces in the city (now the right flank of DB Bistro next door). I was a little sore knowing it wasn’t coming back, but that didn’t keep me from enjoying one of the best meals I’ve yet had this year.

Check for the photos of what we ate that night mixed in with the more interesting things we did, ate, and saw in the first month of the year…

Best Of January

A tour inside ancient and storied Penthouse Bao Bei neon in Chinatown First off was an amuse bouche, an egg-centric trio (paired with Montaudaon Champagne) that saw diced egg with caviar and creme fraiche; scrambled egg with a loonie-sized shave of white truffle; and a quail's egg kicked with espelette and Hollandaise | Lum Egg salt and pepper The first course was a delightfully tart grapefruit cured piece of hamachi matching an '07 Riesling from Rippon in Central Otago. Dressing the fish was a little cucumber and radish, as well as a teaspoon of white sturgeon caviar | Lumiere The winner, Geoff Robinson of The Diamond Dungeness Crab | pumpernickel, shiso, orange, celery root | Lumiere Mouse Quebec Foie Gras Parfait | black truffle, turnip, pistachio, brioche | Lumiere Granville St. | Vancouver, BC Brioche smeared with foie gras | Lumiere Keep those f@ckers out, goddamit! Six Mushroom Ravioli | brussels sprouts, salsify, beaufort, porcini sauce | Lumiere Inside the renovated Museum of Anthropology Cornmeal Crusted Qualicum Bay Scallops | apple truffle coleslaw, brisket, parsnip puree, scallop jus | Lumiere Inside the renovated Museum of Anthropology Polderside Farm Duck | beets, black garlic, horseradish, duck jus (look at that skin!) | Lumiere West Vancouver Community Center Slow Baked Arctic Char | leek flan, black trumpet mushrooms, beurre rouge | Lumiere We're big in Japan Nicola Valley Venison Saddle | potato gallette, red cabbage, bitter chocolate sauce | Lumiere West Vancouver Community Center Duo Of AAA Prime Beef | red wine braised short rib, potato fondant | seared rib eye, romaine parcel | Lumiere Inside the renovated Museum of Anthropology Citrus Consomme | fromage blanc sorbet, lemon mousse, almond sablé, meyer lemon marmalade | Lumiere Inside the renovated Museum of Anthropology Hot & Cold Tiramisu Sundae with Chocolate Cremeux, Mascarpone Mousse, Ladyfingers, Coffee Ice Cream | Lumiere MOA Fini | Lumiere MOA Fresh madeleines | Lumiere Pot pie | Salty Tongue Vancouver Art Gallery:  A Modest Veil The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe Tomato & Hendricks Gin Soup with Evoo, parm crisp and creme fraiche | The Cactus Club PBR Butternut squash stuffed ravioli with sauteed prawns | The Cactus Club Sake-soy marinated Sablefish with fingerlings, asp, and shiitake in dashi broth Exterior | The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe Duck and Chicken Presse and Foie Gras Chicken Boudin | The Cactus Club Restaurateur James Iranzad in mid-chew at Bao Bei A tiny portion of Rob's Hunter Chicken with four mushrooms, demi-glace, haricots vert, and herbed fingerlings | The Cactus Club MOA Slice of perfect Pernod peppercorn filet mignon with mash and veg | The Cactus Club Delivery of dishes at the Art Institute's black box cooking competition My fellow judges grade plates at the Art Institute's black box cooking competition A student's duck dish at the Art Institute's black box cooking competition Lupo Restaurant | 869 Hamilton Street Owner/chef Julio Gonzalez-Perini of Lupo looks up from his pans Raviolo stuffed with spinach, ricotta, hazelnut and a free range egg at Lupo MOA Chicken Lupo at Lupo MOA The $9 spag pomo at Lupo (I'm in love) MOA Amuse at The Diamond Judging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Judging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Judging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Shaun Layton competes at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Judging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Bobby Kay of Boneta competes at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Bobby Kay, shaking. Lauren Mote of The Refinery competes at the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond MOA Performers Geoff Robinson of The Diamond wins the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Judging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Judging the Inniskillin icewine cocktail comp at The Diamond Bryant and Bobby Kay Diners feast at Bao Bei Early favourite: wontons in spicy black bean broth at Bao Bei Bao Bei Owner Tannis Ling multitasks at Bao Bei Co-owner barman Steve Da Cruz | The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe Tomato soup with tarragon creme fraiche MOA Kickass split pea and ham hock | The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe MOA Arctic char with olive oil pommes puree, caper beurre noisette | The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe MOA Granville Street MOA totem The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe Charlie's Restaurant and Bar Touring the ancient penthouse Interior booths at Charlie's Restaurant and Bar The Cork & Fin What a find! Too bad it doesn't work, though it makes for a sweet DJ booth, no? Ryan and Roger on the lower level at Calabash Ancient purple glass sidewalk skylights at Calabash East Van sign by Ken Lum Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Donuts | The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Touring the ancient penthouse Judas Goat (we're bummed it's delayed until March) Judas Goat (we're bummed it's delayed until March) Tannis pours a refreshment during a break in construction | Bao Bei | Scout Magazine Justin Ault, owner of Hapa Izakaya | Scout Magazine Rosy and Victoria doing menu inserts | Hapa Izakaya | Scout Magazine MOA

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Comments

2 Responses to “Scout Photos: Goodbye January We’re So Bummed To See You Go…”

  1. jeannie on February 8th, 2010 11:19 pm

    Andrew:
    I heard you interviewed on CBC – on the Coast last week and you listed some great picks for restaurants in Vancouver. I checked with CBC and they don’t have a transcript. Would you post the list for me and others to learn from. thanks, Jeannie

  2. Scout Magazine on February 8th, 2010 11:59 pm
    Scout Magazine

    Hi Jeannie, thanks for listening (and now, reading). I can’t recall all of the restaurants that I recommended, but I do remember saying that Chambar was my “go to” place, ditto Boneta in Gastown. I’ve also been enjoying Bao Bei in Chinatown quite a bit.

Say it loud, bubba...
and oh, if you want a pic to show with your comment, go get a gravatar!